The Best or Oregon

[tradlad]

Hello all,

 

I think I'm moving to Oregon soon, specifically Corvallis. I can't seem to find any information on any local crags that I might have.

 

I'm most interested in trad and preferably not too far away.

 

I do know about Smith Rock and I plan to visit when I come over, but any other information would be most appreciated.

 

Thanks,

 

Mike

[Sheep]

i think there is some climbing on around marys peak but just a roadside blasted out cliff

[luvshaker]

This guide would get you going.

 

http://www.amazon.com/Rock-Climbing-Western-Oregon-Willamette/dp/1879415437/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1289325670&sr=8-1

 

Corvallis has lots of climbers to check in with.

 

Smith becomes about the only consistant option this time of year. Callahans outside of Roseburg can have good winter climbing. When things dry out, there are lots of options. Trad too.

 

 

[kevbone]

Best in Oregon? Beacon Rock....wait it is in Washington.

[tradlad]

Thanks for the replies,

 

Also, what are the winters like in Oregon with regards to climbing? Wet, snowy, windy, cold??

 

Thanks,

Mike

[KirkW]

You will not find any climbing (worth a shit) really close to Corvallis.

 

The bolts on the TR slab at Mary's peak have been chopped and those bushes are gonna take only so much abuse.

 

Harlan is...interesting.

 

Some climbing out by Sweet Home but most of the good stuff (I hear) isn't in that guide. Google "bouldering at the Garden" or something similar and start sorting through the crap. I've never been to the Garden but I know lots of people can't get enough of the moss covered boulders.

 

Bunch of other suggestions over at Mt. Proj. If you find anything worth a shit please let me know.

 

Good climbing in the Menagerie but that's a bit of a drive and approach if you're looking for something after work. All kinds of climbing but no one would accuse that place of being over bolted.

 

PM Checat for all the real good top-secret beta. He'll share that shit with anyone and probably needs a belay slave.

 

Good luck!

[KirkW]

Thanks for the replies,

 

Also, what are the winters like in Oregon with regards to climbing? Wet, snowy, windy, cold??

 

Thanks,

Mike

 

Learn how to aid!

[111]

Dont know how experienced ya are, but the menagerie has some great climbing, but it is very adventurous and run out; not for beginners. The Cascades are all fairly easy winter access, and during winter/spring, climb like any other snow covered mtn. During the summer, climbing the Cascades are sketchy kitty-litter. Look into the western oregon rock guides (3 of them) mentioned above. Within 2.5-3.5 hrs of Corvallis, you've got a playground of high quality climbing, but almost none within an hour. give a holler when you get to Corv, I'll have a beer with ya. Welcome!

 

(ignore the terrorism related bull**** in the news about Corvallis the last few days; we dont breed 'em like that, and the mosque firebombing was disgraceful)