Boots

[rocky_joe]

Getting a new pair of boots this winter. I'm sick of having Koflachs, esp as they're too big, old, and heavy. I'm looking at 3 different pairs, all of which are priced and advertised as being pretty comparable: LaSportiva Nepal EVO, Scarpa Mont Blanc, and Mammut Mamook Thermo. I'd love to hear from anyone who has used the latter two, or anyone who has not had good luck with the Nepals...I haven't heard anything bad yet. If you've used another comparable boot that you're really pleased with, I'd like to hear about it as well. Thanks all.

[RafalA]

I've got the Mont Blancs and love 'em. They fit my feet better than the Nepals (less heel lift) and the toebox is very roomy and wide. They are supremely comfortable - my first outing in them was a 10-12 hr trip up Mt. Athabasca with no blisters, rubbing or other issues. The laces can be locked in to keep heel lift in check while allowing the rest of the boot to be loosened up.

 

They fit crampons very well: the sole is not as assymetrical as the Scarpa Freney (my ice boots) allowing a better fit without additional bars. Petzl M10's fit as if they were designed for these boots.

 

I just got them this summer so can't speak for their ice climbing prowess, but I prefer them for alpine over my Freneys. The roomier toebox and slightly less flexible upper make them more supportive, while remaining comfortable for long approaches. Durability has not been an issue and other than some scarring on the sole, they still look brand new after 5 or 6 alpine outings involving extensive scree trudging and boot-skiing everything possible on the way down.

 

I think the Freneys will still be better on harder ice due to their more flexible upper and slightly longer last (I had to get the Mont Blancs 1/2 size larger to prevent toe contact when front-pointing). They also feel a touch warmer with the same socks.

 

I guess it somewhat depends on your primary use, and I still have the Mont Blancs out on some ice this winter so I can make a better comparison, but as is I'd characterize them so:

 

For ice I think I'll still prefer the Freney. They climb very well, are nice and sensitive and keep my feet warm down to -20 or so. They're absolutely waterproof and comfortable enough for long approaches.

 

For alpine the Mont Blanc is roomier and feels like armor for my feet. They feel like heavy-duty hikers that can climb.

[Nitrox]

Try them on first. Any one of the boots you mentioned will work. I went through this last month and the boots I thought I'd like best fit the worst. I ended up with Nepals but was open to about a half dozen different boots (Nepal, Mont Blanc, Mamook, P-Guide, etc). All would have worked for what I'm doing but fit was an over riding priority to features.

 

 

[divnamite]

Does anyone know if Nepal and Baturas have the same last (sole) as the Spantik? When I tried Nepal 3 years ago, they don't fit and kill my feet. I got the Spantik last winter and they fit really nice with super feet. Just want to have a lighter pair of boots for winter outings.

Edited October 14, 2010 by divnamite

[Dane]

Actually dispite what La Sportiva says the Nepal, Batura have a different last from my experience. Batura has a bigger toe box in the same size boots. The Spantik has a totally different last but is also very similar to the current Nepal Evo.

 

Dbl boots in general have such a higher comfort level, even if the lasts were the same you'd be hard pressed to know it.

 

Try the Trango Extreme Evo, Silver Bullet, it seems to fit most with little complaint.

[divnamite]

According to sportiva, Spantik and Baruntse have the same last as the old "Nuptse". It's funny because Nuptse boots don't fit me at all, too narrow on the toe and massive heel lift. I just might give Scarpa Phantom Guide a try.

[Dane]

Having owned all three...Spantik, Baruntse and Guide I can tell you they all fit very differently. Although the Baruntse's inner boot is easily moldable and should give most a perfect fit if the boot fitter knows what he is doing with the foam the liners.

 

Baruntse has a much wider toe box than the Spantik.

Phantom Guide and Nepal Evo are very similar in fit.

 

Best thing to do is try them all on.

[divnamite]

Yes, I'm gonna try on a few pair of them if I can find them in stock.