Pitons and screws

[mzvarner]

I dont plan on doing routes that consider a ton of hammering, but I would like to have a few pitons to bail off of or use in an anchor. What would make a good assortment for the cascades?

 

Also, what is a good number of ice screws for a begginer to have and of what sizes. These would go to montana, canada, and here in the cascades as well.

 

Thanks

[Alasdair]

Pick up a few different lengths of knife blades and you should be fine for pitons.

[DPS]

I dont plan on doing routes that consider a ton of hammering, but I would like to have a few pitons to bail off of or use in an anchor. What would make a good assortment for the cascades?

 

I own the following pins:

 

All Black Diamond

-Long thin Bugaboo

-Long medium Bugaboo

-Standard knife blade

-Thick knife blade

-#1 Angle

-#2 Angle

-#3 Angle

 

For most winter alpine routes I carry

-Long thin Bugaboo

-Long medium Bugaboo

-Standard knife blade

-#1 Angle

-#2 Angle

 

 

Also, what is a good number of ice screws for a begginer to have and of what sizes. These would go to montana, canada, and here in the cascades as well.

 

Thanks

 

Are you interested in waterfalls or winter alpine routes? For winter alpine routes I find shorter screws to be more useful and carry 1 10cm, 2 13cm, 2 16 cm, and 1 19 cm (for V-threads) in addition to a medium sized rock rack (the above selection of pins, 6 medium sized nuts, 4 Camalots .5 - 2.0). For pure waterfall routes I carry 9-10 screws, mostly 16cm, a couple of 19cm and a couple of 13 cm screws.

[spionin]

pins: a couple of knifeblades, bugaboos #3 and #4, two of each. i usually have 4 pins on me at most.

screws (all bd express turbo): 10cm, five 13 cm, two 16 cm, two 19 cm. i climb almost exclusively on 13 cm, and carry five-six of those on a pitch plus a 19 cm for anchors and abalakovs.