kevbone Posted October 4, 2010 Posted October 4, 2010 Joseph. Broughtons could really use your efforts of bolt replacement. I replaced the anchors on Classic Crack and the first pitch of Gandalfs a couple of years ago. There are a ton of shitty bolts at Broughtons. Quote
JosephH Posted October 4, 2010 Author Posted October 4, 2010 The bolts up right of Cruising are not new, but just the bolts on 'Rock Police'. Stone Rodeo goes up the shield-like overhanging face with a roof at the top of it and a small tree growing out in space from the crux split in the roof. It got rehabbed over the weekend. It had four bolts and three pins on it, the fourth bolt under the roof is really probably part of 'Obnoxious Cubbyhole' which comes up from the right and meets SR under the roof. The third, high pin was buried under a growth of fern roots. All the bolts were replaced. The two lower pins were pulled and reset - both were and are basically body weight only affairs and neither would likely hold a fall, especially the first pin which is in behind the top of a flake. The second pin is in a downward angled slot. Both funked out with a half-hearted pull on them. Bolts were retro'd next to each of the two lower pins - but, don't get too used them just yet. There is a cam placement just left of the first pin, but at the level of the pin, not the bottom of the webbing loop on the pin and it's possible the cam placement can't be reached from free moves at that point. The second pin has a red-size oval placement up and right of it, but it may be a main handhold. Need to get on the route to be sure. I'm pretty sure the first pin bolt probably needs to stay and think the second pin bolt may not be required but we'll see. Removing either is no big deal either way, but we shouldn't have to rely on really bad pins while we sort it out either. Anyone who gets on it should look at the cam placement by each pin and see what you think, paying particular attention to the reach to the placement by the first pin, and the use of the second placement as a handhold. For those interested, or anyone who needs to retrieve gear from it, the best way to get to the SR anchor is to rappel with a 70m from the YW p2 anchor angling down and left. Downaiding under the roof on rappel is fairly entertaining as well. And best done rapping a single line along with one aider & adjustable daisy, pulling under, and then re-belaying with an alpine butterfly on each clip as you rap down it. Jug to clean. P.S. Oh, and the 'Rock Police' anchor got replaced as well. P.P.S. Kevin, I don't really care much for the rock out at Broughton's so someone who does will have to get after things over there. I also don't really have much else on the agenda in the way of protection bolt replacements out at Beacon - possibly 'Second Wind', but that's about it. Eric and Carl came along and got on it before I could even rap off after finishing up. Quote
stevetimetravlr Posted October 12, 2010 Posted October 12, 2010 Whats da news boys? Stone Rodeo got some new bolts. way to get after it Joseph, and thank you for the beta. Whats up with all the home boys? Whats been happening at da Beacon stone? ivan put up any new routes, wats shaking? Just back from the Valley, many many days of rain. took a couple big ones, the 40 footer being the one that really got my attention. I might be getting to old for this shit. As soon as this bruised hip heals, i am back out there in yor face! How bout them anchors over on Fresh Squeeze, we need some new activity over on that part of the stone but Ivans description kinda scares me. Quote
billcoe Posted October 12, 2010 Posted October 12, 2010 What the story on the 40 footer Steve? BTW, I was down a few years back and I got to the campground late, but one of the guys, old Beacon/PDX climber had peeled off a route and "sprained" his ankle. I just saw him last month and he's still limping. When asked, he mentioned that he found out later that it had broken that trip. Quote
stevetimetravlr Posted October 12, 2010 Posted October 12, 2010 After 3 days of rain, got on Lunatic Fringe and took a short winger,it was all sandy and my foot slipped and I jammed my leg on something and hurt it. The jams are solid on that climb though, one of the most beautiful crack climbs ever. took the big one on Crest Jewel. Got a little off route and instead of reversing and doing it right decided to push it and keep going and was almost to the bolt....I was holding on to little dime edges and could feel my foot start to slip and told him i was going to blow and he said power thru it, but then my foot went and I took 3 steps running backwards trying to take up slack and then it was ass over teakettle and at some point i impacted my hip and really bruised it badly. Just scraped up but it shook me up pretty good as it felt like I was tumbling forever. the Valley is all about being humbled sometimes, and i got a good serving of it. Quote
billcoe Posted October 13, 2010 Posted October 13, 2010 Slab fall - ugh. Yeah, in a more remote spot than just sliding off Glacier Point apron too. That could have gone bad, congrats on only a hip bruise Steve! Quote
stevetimetravlr Posted October 13, 2010 Posted October 13, 2010 What doesn't killya, just makes you stronger. After you heal that is! Quote
denalidave Posted October 13, 2010 Posted October 13, 2010 Wow, glad yer ok... I don't like to fall anymore. I'm ascared of it. Quote
wrangler Posted October 13, 2010 Posted October 13, 2010 I certainly didn't see signs of chipping on Stone Rodeo when I was on it last season. Maybe its just because I got back from the Laruelwood but here's my two cents on Stone Rodeo. There are already bolts on it, they might as well be decent bolts. If someone is going to go to the extent of permanently altering the rock for fixed pro, they owe it to the climbing community that those pieces of pro adequately protect the pitch and are of good quality. What use are antiques? Currently those bolts are nothing but eyesores. I understand that many/most/all of those bolts may not have been placed by the FFA party (whoever they were) but they're there now. I hate to break it to all the Beatards but replacing worthless bolts on a 40' route at Beacon Rock isn't the worse thing in the world. In fact, getting some stronger climbers out at Beacon Rock is probably the best thing that could happen at that crag. There are so many routes in the 10-11+ range that would be high quality if only climbed and cleaned more often. What this crag needs is an influx of climbers not headed for the Corner, YW, JT or the like. I understand BR has a trad ethic, but honestly once the damage is done... the bolts should at least be decent so that the community gets full value out of them. It's no different between YW and SR. If YW was just a bunch of star-drives, they should be replaced as well. If a route developer decides fixed gear is needed, then it is their responsibility to see that the gear is adequate and the community's responsibility to see that it is maintained. There needs to both be a sense of obligation from route developers and responsibility from the climbing community. Rock is a shared resource and it needs to be treated as such. Nate is absolutely spot on with this! well said. Also, Stone Rodeo has a good variety of moves compared to most south-side routes--technical roofs and a wild finish pulling off a fist jam with your back to the ground--stellar. (and it's totally sandbagged, even for Beacon). I applaud Joseph for replacing the junk protection and shrugging off the trolls. Quote
kevbone Posted October 14, 2010 Posted October 14, 2010 How was Infinite Bliss? Very cool route. Quote
billcoe Posted October 14, 2010 Posted October 14, 2010 Steel bolts up there...someone's gonna have to replace them with stainless at some point as it's wet up there on Garfield. Any nominees for the job? LOL! Quote
kevbone Posted October 14, 2010 Posted October 14, 2010 Steel bolts up there...someone's gonna have to replace them with stainless at some point as it's wet up there on Garfield. Any nominees for the job? JH of course. Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.