[TR] Prusik Peak - West Ridge 9/9/2010

[Vernman23]

Trip: Prusik Peak - West Ridge

 

Date: 9/9/2010

 

Trip Report:

Josh had spent the good months of the summer down in the Dirty, Oily, South saving our shores from the BP Oil spill so we made plans to get out and do something this week. After most of our ideas got rained or snowed out we decided to try Prusik Peak.

Thursday Josh and I left the Sky Valley at 5:45 we were hoping to get to Leavenworth to get a permit for the Enchantments. Hoping that the weather lately had deterred people from coming out. Once again we were wrong and there is not much that keeps people from the Enchantments. We didn’t get drawn for the Enchantments but we were able to get a permit for Colchuck.

After a quick stop at Mc Donald’s we were off up the Icicle. We started up the trail at 9am. We got news from a pair of backpackers that the weather was not favorable and there was about six inches of snow at the pass. We thought that maybe we were just in for a backpacking trip and continued up the trail.

We set up camp in the boulder field and were off for Prusik Peak at 12. We figured we would just hike to Prusik pass and re-evaluate the conditions and see what we wanted to do. We reached the bottom of the West Ridge Route at 3:30 in about 6” of snow. We decided that we should give the route a shot and started climbing at 4:00.

The climb went well the roughest part was the 5.7 slab with no protection and I took a more direct route to the summit that felt a lot harder than 5.7 (It could have been a mixture of the snow, freezing temps and the 20-30 MPH winds).

After a quick summit shot we started down. During the raps I started to show signs of mild hypothermia, always a fun time. Josh ended the last rappel with head lamp and I scrambled half way up the first pitch to get his shoes and at about 8:00 out of the wind we went. Once back in the basin it warmed up to about 37 and the wind was gone we caught our second wind and headed for Aasgard Pass. Going was slow, we were both pretty exhausted. We got to the pass at about 10:00.

It seemed as though it took us longer to go down the pass in the dark then it did coming up. We got to the boulder field at about 12:00. I set up the tent and Josh went to go get water. Josh opted out of dinner, I had some Mountain House lasagna and warm Gatorade, MMMMMMM. The temps at the lake were about 40 degrees and the tent was cozy.

The next morning we sat on top of a boulder in the sun watched about 30 people go by. Admiring peoples boulder hoping abilities and finishing off some PBR’s that we didn’t feel like drinking the night before but couldn’t fathom dumping out.

We headed back to the car at about 10:30. We probably passed 30 more people on the trail, many of whom had overnight packs and no visible permits. Once back at the parking lot we ran into two rangers who were headed up the trail to install a new toilet. Our permit had fallen off but they had a list with our name on it and we just showed them some I.D. and we were good to go. They were very friendly we took their picture with the toilet backpacks for them and wondered how many people they were going to cite for not having passes. Off to Gustav’s we went sore bodies but refreshed minds.

A successful trip!

 

 

Gear Notes:

rack to 3" single 60m. Down jackets

[Whatcomboy]

Way to get after it.

[Teh Phuzzy]

you look pretty fresh the day after...

 

well done

[summitchaserCJB]

I think I took the same line to the summit as you did. Did you take the line basically directly straight up to the chimney? If so, I think it felt a little hard as well.

[Vernman23]

SummitChaser,

 

After the Class 3 ledge I went straight up to the summit. It felt a little stiff to me.

[summitchaserCJB]

Definitely- like 5.8/9 moves. Nice fall summit.

[TobiasT]

Yeah I looked at that chimney, I think the beckey topo is a little off but his route description is correct. There's a layback to the right off the 3rd class ledges, the correct chimney (low 5th) is on the south aspect with pretty sweet views.

[goatboy]

The easier chimney is more on the West (rather than South) aspect, overlooking the West Ridge route. The obvious chimney visible directly above the standard route above the lieback is harder, like 5.8 or so as people have said.

[kevino]

Whats up guys. I ran into you on the boulder field and top of aasgard. Nice work getting it done.

[Vernman23]

Whats up guys. I ran into you on the boulder field and top of aasgard. Nice work getting it done.

 

Hey. We were talking about your pizza and beer on our hike back haha.