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cory.nyc

Rope Suggestions

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I am going to need a new rope this Winter and just could use some advice or input on some rope suggestions.

 

I am primarily an Ice climber, although I will be doing a lot more mixed this winter. I will primarily use it for leading and may use it for some glacier travel. Other than the rock on the mixed I won't be using them for rock climbing, so it's gonna be purley ice and mixed rope.

 

Should I get a single rope, or spring for the Half ropes? Most of the routes I climb don't tend to wander to much, although I will be doing mixed so that might change. So any opinions on what rope I should buy? I have a few in mind but would like to see what yall recommend.

 

Thanks.

Edited by cory.nyc

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Lot of personal preferences in ropes, so you'll likely get some different suggestions, but my pick would be to go with some nice light double ropes if you are primarily on ice. They generate less impact force in the event of a fall, and give the option of making double rope rappels for climbs you cannot walk off. The last ropes for ice I bought were Beal Ice Line (8.1mm I think?),and I liked those, but I'm sure many companies make a nice comparable light double rope. This probably goes without saying, but get two different colors that stand apart well. Most of the double ropes will be available like this anyway.

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interesting that you are primarily a ice/mixed climber and not interested in warm weather rock climbing. Rock climbing is a valuable skill for ice and mixed climbing. While I don't know anything other than what is written above, My rec is to get some serious warm weather rock climbing in before any motions are taken with ice tools. I have met some people who jumped straight to ice and they never got the "feel" for how to move well on the steep terrain.

 

As for ropes, I would have to ask how you are getting off most climbs. Raps longer than 30m? Then get doubles. If they are all 30m or less or walk offs, then you can find thin single lines that have a low impact force. The single would be good for non wandering ice and mixed climbing. Doubles rule in the canadian rockies but I am not sure about your area.

 

Ideally, your ice rope and mixed rope will be different as you should not be falling while on ice but defiantely will on the mixed ground.

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Sorry to make some info unclear.

 

I will be climbing in the ADK's and Whites primarily, Raps are required but I have used my 9.4 with a pull line and have been fine with 60m raps using that method. I DO rock climb but have a completely separate rope for that (sounds weird but w/e).

 

Last do you recommend Twin or Half ropes? I had my eyes set on the Petzl Dragonflys or mammut genesis. I know the Petzl ropes tend to be stiff but I felt them in the store and liked them. Any thoughts.

 

Thanks.

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I'm a big fan of the Mammut Phoenix half ropes. The dry treatment actually works well and they're just thick enough to inspire some confidence in them.

 

Considering switching to single+tag line for mixed stuff specifically because it cuts down on tomfoolery and slop in the system a lot. Used that set up with the Mammut Serenity alpine cragging on Illumination Rock and liked it quite a bit.

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I have a pair of the Mammut Genesis you're considering and I think they're good ropes. I think they're on the thicker side for half ropes (8.5) and I've felt good using them in a variety of situations. Double ropes are like a get-off-the-mountain-free ticket. If you led it, you can rap it.

 

That said, the double rope system takes a little getting used to, and if you're leading something hard you would want to have it dialed in.

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