betablast me! terminal preppie

[keenwesh]

gave this a go from the ground today, lowered off after the 2nd bolt and climbed the GNS to set up a TR. how do you climb this route? the mantle over the first roof is insane! I'm pretty sure I'll be able to work my way up the slab on a cool overcast day but I was having no luck in the full sun and high of 83. for the mantle, feet on the right side? right or left hand in the triangular hold above the lip? tall beta is what I need, I'm not some petite ballerina, I'm a 6'6" ogre.

[keenwesh]

come on people! this route is tight and I can't figure out the sequence for shit. help me!

[Peter_Puget]

I think most climbers are unfamiliar with the beta a 6' 6" ogre would require.

[Wallstein]

I have the beta for a midget. Right foot up first. than stand up?

[keenwesh]

I got my right foot first and then ended up kicking madly below with my left, no chance to even try the beached whale! I can see that it's doable, but it feels super hard for me and I've heard that it's a 5.10 move if you do it right...

[summitchaserCJB]

ya, please don't do the beached whale. If you do, go do something easier. Nothing is worse than flailing.

[boadman]

leg press

[keenwesh]

I'm hopefully heading out there next week with cooler temps to work the slab section.

[Jens]

I heel hook with my right leg.

[rocketparrotlet]

ya, please don't do the beached whale. If you do, go do something easier. Nothing is worse than flailing.

 

What about failing? Beached whale is an important part of the climber's repertoire, just like the knee-up or belly-crawl along a ledge.

[phillygoat]

Worse than flailing: "take, Take, TAKE!!! DAmmit I said TAKE!!!!"

[summitchaserCJB]

ya, please don't do the beached whale. If you do, go do something easier. Nothing is worse than flailing.

 

What about failing? Beached whale is an important part of the climber's repertoire, just like the knee-up or belly-crawl along a ledge.

I disagree. I thought the belly-crawl was the beached whale. Clearly you guys have more experience in these techniques than I do.

[summitchaserCJB]

Worse than flailing: "take, Take, TAKE!!! DAmmit I said TAKE!!!!"

That phrase is an integral part of flailing.

[rocketparrotlet]

ya, please don't do the beached whale. If you do, go do something easier. Nothing is worse than flailing.

 

What about failing? Beached whale is an important part of the climber's repertoire, just like the knee-up or belly-crawl along a ledge.

I disagree. I thought the belly-crawl was the beached whale. Clearly you guys have more experience in these techniques than I do.

 

Unfortunately...yes. But if you climb Wonderland in Squamish, you'll know what I mean about the belly crawl. Kind of like the army crawl, but with more exposure.

[keenwesh]

figured out all the sequences through all of it. the 11c crux is freakin thin, like smearing on nothing and holding your right foot on with your core while you squeeze a sidepull and a crimp together. I was talking to a guy up there who said that one of the upper crimps or the crux crimp used to be a quater inch bigger but it broke off and some people think it's 11d, any truth to this?

[summitchaserCJB]

ya, please don't do the beached whale. If you do, go do something easier. Nothing is worse than flailing.

 

What about failing? Beached whale is an important part of the climber's repertoire, just like the knee-up or belly-crawl along a ledge.

I disagree. I thought the belly-crawl was the beached whale. Clearly you guys have more experience in these techniques than I do.

Unfortunately...yes. But if you climb Wonderland in Squamish, you'll know what I mean about the belly crawl. Kind of like the army crawl, but with more exposure.

Sounds more like something I would do at the top of a scary ice pitch in loose powdery snow.

Edited August 30, 2010 by summitchaserCJB