Dragontail Gerber-Sink/Wickwire-Stanley link up

[TMO]

I am planning on climbing Dragontail soon linking up the Gerber-Sink with the upper part of the Hidden Couloir route (crossing the Fin third class ledges). The Beckey Bible leaves a lot to be desired for descriptions, but I have gleaned some great beta from this site.

 

I was wondering if some of you who have done this route (Dane, Off White, ??) could help me out with some particulars.

 

- Route finding seems straight forward to BB Ridge. What is it like getting to the 3rd class ledges from there?

- Looking at photos it seems like getting off the ledges could be a real pain. I know there is a delicate 5.7 move here, but is the route obvious? It doesn't seem like it from photos.

- Finally, I would like to do the route in approach shoes and leave the axe and 'pons at home. Do you thinkI can get away with that?

 

Much appreciated!

 

Troy

[John Frieh]

I've accidentally done Wickwire-Stanley finishing up the third couloir on triple couloirs and the couloir was a real pile. I was stoked to have rock shoes. We didnt have axe/pons and were okay.

[TMO]

Thanks John! I was thinking about maybe trying the third couloir finish, sounds ugly though.

[jshamster]

third couloir is a heaping POS if it don't have snow in it.

if you do climb it, i recommend taking the rope off to avoid choppage

of rope or partner.

 

cheers

jimbo

[Dane]

Super easy and obvious. Top of the G/S you hit the face on the Fin if you stay right. Ledges run up and right. One step around move (two moves) at the very end of the ledges which is pretty exposed (but very easy) and you are on the last bit (short) of easy rubble to the summit.

 

I think it is an awesome line, easy to follow. Easy to do in boots as well but also done it in approach shoes. Crux is low down on the face in a short corner.

 

'pons and axe can stay home for the G/S this time of year. It will be all rock and very fun.

[TMO]

That's what I wanted to hear Dane! I appreciate the info. Hoping to get it done in the next couple of weeks