[TR] Big 4 Direct Tower Route - 7/25/2010

[hanman]

Trip: Big 4 Direct Tower Route -

 

Date: 7/25/2010

 

Trip Report:

So a couple weeks ago, Shapp, benmurphy, rainman, and myself took a little trip to the Big 4 Tower, which I had not really been back to since the bridge was out. I forgot how much I really enjoy the rock, setting, and easy approach. We did the first 3 pitches of this 13 pitch route. Some photos--

 

 

Unique tree

 

Rainman on P1

 

Looking down P1

 

Fueling up

 

 

Looking down from P3

 

Mr Murphy having fun on P2-

 

Me on the PG13 somewhat runout don't wanna fall P3

 

P3- tricky move off the belay

 

Hanman/Shapp at the big ledge after P3

 

Cobbles and cobbles

 

Nice silver snag

 

The walk out could use some clipping- go figure....

 

Slabs from below the route- this wall only got about 10 minutes of sun all day- great for beating the heat!

 

 

 

 

Your tax dollars at work- price of aluminum must have been low that week

 

Gear Notes:

Medium rack to #4, the first pitch eats up many finger pieces, then gets big. Pitches are long (near 50 M), lotza draws needed. P1, P4, 5 are gear pitches.

 

Approach Notes:

Big 4 trail, head left past 2 chasms, up on a bench below the climb, then about 300 feet of bushy 3rd class to reach the base of the route

[jshamster]

nice! 13 pitches total huh? need to bring cleaning supplies?

 

cheers

jimbo

[hanman]

Hey there Jimbo-

 

Here's a link to the original TR- The place is really quite clean despite the aspect.

 

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/484691/Re_TR_Big_Four_Direct_Tower_Ro

[jshamster]

thanks mark!

[shapp]

Regarding the spicey third pitch, I have never heard the phrase "f*ck Packard" uttered more continuously in my entire life (referent to the person that put up that pitch on lead)repeated near continuously as Hanman lead the pitch. I must say that Mr. Packard must have exhibited great style when bolting that thing on lead. I don't have the stones myself to take potential 40 footers on that cheese grater rock. That pitch is solid 5.10 (5.9+ it says on the original trip report, sand bag yo! on unusual rock that if you don't choose the right foot placement carefully is pretty slippery. Props to Packard for the FA and for Hanman for dropping Mr. Murphy and I a rope so we could proceed further upward.

 

Regarding gear for the 1st crack, I was glad I had and used 2 #3's, 1 #4 (new style), 1 #4.5 (old style), and 1 #5 (new style) camalots in additionn to the smaller gear. That is a great long! crack, defenitley an endureo pitch this several fun and well protected cruxes. Although to have crack love enjoyment, it must be dry. The first time I tried to climb it, it was pretty wet, muddy hand jams are best left to anal necropheliacs.

 

I am looking forward to Pervert Stew on saturday, though

 

 

 

 

 

Edited August 10, 2010 by shapp

[hanman]

Let's just say that his additional foot of reach over the midget was the source of much of the various linguistic opportunities as usual...

 

 

That was a fun day Shappy!

 

MH

[Rainman]

Well, I'd like to say that I think Mr. hanman is on to something here. The potential for this "hot day oasis" is huge! The rock is suprizingly clean and there is lots of it! As with most Western Wash. crags, the cracks tend to be vegitated and unpleasant. The rest however, offers fantastic face climbing on bullit hard comglomerate. Lots of peebles frozen to a sandstone "super hard" matrix makes for very wild climbing! I had a great time. Super lead of p3, Mark! Nice job!

[mountainsloth]

super cool! nice work guys. i might end up out there by the end of the summer.