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Nine Lives


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A couple of knot-tying (not-tying) chapters to add....

A while back I watched a guy unintentionally "solo" Dan’s Dreadful Direct. He thought he was top-roping but he’d only tied the first figure 8 and passed the loose tail through his harness. When he was about 2/3 of the way to the top someone from below noticed the knot above his head and we all watched expectantly as he finished the knot one-handed - a considerable distance off the deck. I guess DDD doesn’t need bolts after all?

A couple years later, also in Leavenworth, an instructor was setting up a top-rope for her class above Deception Crack (option B as Classic was occupied). For whatever reason she chose to tie through the anchors with a length of cord with half of a double-fisherman’s’ (not to be confused with a single fisherman’s or the intended double-fisherman’s). Proceeding to rappel from this set-up, she taught her class how NOT to set anchors by landing face-first at the students’ feet.

In both cases, these were experienced climbers. There’s a lesson to be learned: The health risks associated with staying inside the Muir hut and smoking out are far less than going outside to climb. frown.gif" border="0

[ 11-21-2001: Message edited by: Downhill ]

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