beacon bolting question?

[counterfeitfake]

don't bother, i'll just call the ranger station. why wouldn't it be a serious question, chances r i won't have to install any bolts in the first place and you can TR hang dog another one of my routes like you did on this one MONKEY BOY

 

THAT is Beacon??

 

THAT is a ROUTE??

 

THAT IS WHAT ALL THIS SPRAY IS ABOUT??

[JosephH]

That's actually a very nice route on the North side. This is the money side of Beacon:

 

 

 

[denalidave]

don't bother, i'll just call the ranger station. why wouldn't it be a serious question, chances r i won't have to install any bolts in the first place and you can TR hang dog another one of my routes like you did on this one MONKEY BOY

 

THAT is Beacon??

 

THAT is a ROUTE??

 

THAT IS WHAT ALL THIS SPRAY IS ABOUT??

THAT IS THE "OTHER" BEACON... THE UNWANTED STEP CHILD OF THE NORTH SIDE. YOU CAN HAVE IT. AT LEAST ALL SUMMER.

[denalidave]

OK, coffee's done, better quit spraying and go get some BACON, or more likely, have BACON get me...

[stevetimetravlr]

Did there not used to be 2 pins at the crux of Young Warriors? Now just one. I was sure there was 2 last Fall.

Way to go Ivan and Dave firing up Dods/Dastardly yesterday, those boys were out getting burly, getting er done!

[JosephH]

One pin, just above the crux in the middle of the slab. There is a second, unusually large pin as you come up approaching the rest stance instantly below the crux.

[stevetimetravlr]

I was talking about the 3rd pitch near the top where you angle up right and there is a couple crimpy technical moves and there used to be 2 old pins there to protect it and now there is 1. No evidence the other was ever there. Some one had to have pulled it.

 

[Winter]

[JosephH]

I was talking about the 3rd pitch near the top where you angle up right and there is a couple crimpy technical moves and there used to be 2 old pins there to protect it and now there is 1. No evidence the other was ever there. Some one had to have pulled it.

Are you sure? Both pins were solid when I checked them last year; neither would ever come out on their own. Maybe someone fell and pulled one? Which of the two is missing - the one on the way up to the crux or the one up in the start of the dihedral?

[stevetimetravlr]

I'm sure, unless I'm blind... The one that is there is the one that you clip right before the crux, and then I thought the other one was higher up but can't remember exactly where it was, I just remember there were 2.

[JosephH]

Well, I'm headed out there right now and will check on it...

[el jefe]

don't bother, i'll just call the ranger station. why wouldn't it be a serious question, chances r i won't have to install any bolts in the first place and you can TR hang dog another one of my routes like you did on this one MONKEY BOY

 

THAT is Beacon??

 

THAT is a ROUTE??

 

THAT IS WHAT ALL THIS SPRAY IS ABOUT??

 

there's always one guy who is the last one to get the joke! this time it's you, counter!

[denalidave]

Way to go Ivan and Dave firing up Dods/Dastardly yesterday, those boys were out getting burly, getting er done!

Whatever, Dude, I was crying and hanging like a schoolgirl! Twas the suckfestestest performance ever! Had a good time anyway, though.

[Pilchuck71]

Full disclosure... Under no circumstances should my spray be relied on as fact, partial fact or truthful whatsoever. I have a limited capacity to remember facts, just ask my wife. The reader should rely on their own research and fact checking before challenging the MAN and his policies.

 

[JosephH]

I'm sure, unless I'm blind... The one that is there is the one that you clip right before the crux, and then I thought the other one was higher up but can't remember exactly where it was, I just remember there were 2.

All the fixed pro on the route is as it was, though the loss of the super-luxurious rail for the exit of the p3 crux makes it a bit of a spicier proposition. Sort of a "you don't know what you've got 'til it's gone" sort of deal.

 

All in all it looks like YW p1-p3 definitely took the brunt of rockfall and is a complete mess and will be until it gets cleaned up. Will have to think about that one a bit as it won't be a straightforward affair no matter how it's done.

[JosephH]

Whatever, Dude, I was crying and hanging like a schoolgirl! Twas the suckfestestest performance ever! Had a good time anyway, though.

How did the wide section go?

[denalidave]

Whatever, Dude, I was crying and hanging like a schoolgirl! Twas the suckfestestest performance ever! Had a good time anyway, though.

How did the wide section go?

Pretty easy since Ivan lead it... The medium-wide section on Dastardly was where most of the crying was.

[ivan]

How did the wide section go?

the highlight for me was leading into that part, growing confused as to how in the hell i'd done this in the past, deciding to just pour more ommf into the solution, only to hear my right shoulder make a loud, painful pop - don't know that i didn't momentarily dislocate the fuckign thing as it's been days now and despite resting it, putting it in a sling, etc. it still hurts like hell and's lost much of its range of motion - nature's way of telling me to go back to aiding?

[JosephH]

Sorry to hear that, but you did the right thing relative to 'pouring more ommf' into the start of it, not much else can be done there but that.

 

Might have to get that shoulder looked at if it's still out of whack. Do you recall the particular movement or position you were in when it happened (always looking to avoid shit like this myself)?

[denalidave]

How did the wide section go?

the highlight for me was leading into that part, growing confused as to how in the hell i'd done this in the past, deciding to just pour more ommf into the solution, only to hear my right shoulder make a loud, painful pop - don't know that i didn't momentarily dislocate the fuckign thing as it's been days now and despite resting it, putting it in a sling, etc. it still hurts like hell and's lost much of its range of motion - nature's way of telling me to go back to aiding?

Bummer dude. I hope it heals up soon. RICE it...

[stevetimetravlr]

Was that you hanging on the skyline over near Young Warriors on Friday Joseph with some sort of bag under you? me and Rick ran up to take a gander at the 10b Ivan had cleaned, but the one I thought it was Rick said was Diagonal Desperation or somesuch so still not sure which climb it was.

[JosephH]

Yes, finally got out and was checking on all the YW fixed pro. Was seconding p4 when Rick went by under me. I had stopped to clean things up a bit, and had hung my rope-soloing pack from the rope while I did so I could move around easier. Need to go up and really clean p3 down to the ground in one of the next few late nights. What a mess.

[ivan]

Was that you hanging on the skyline over near Young Warriors on Friday Joseph with some sort of bag under you? me and Rick ran up to take a gander at the 10b Ivan had cleaned, but the one I thought it was Rick said was Diagonal Desperation or somesuch so still not sure which climb it was.

riverside is easy to spot - near the end of grassy ledges - a big fat bramble grows at its base and requires yearly pruning - jim calls it "mushroom ledge" and says it was the first ledge they developed on grassy ledges, before even the LOLP - there's a near 10 foot high step on the far end of the ledge - riverside requires a wierdo move just to get started, as i show in my full re-tard style here

[ivan]

Might have to get that shoulder looked at if it's still out of whack. Do you recall the particular movement or position you were in when it happened (always looking to avoid shit like this myself)?

yeah, in hindsight makes sense how you can fuck up your shoulder in the position i had it - arm was rolled over, palm inverted and flat against the wall and way behind my, kinda like you're reaching into the backseat while driving to get somethign off the floor - apparently the classic position for dislocating the joint, based on my exhaustive interwbe reading

[JosephH]

Good to know. Already have a pretty bum left shoulder, always trying to avoid screwing it up worse or overdoing the right one.

 

Yeah, Riverside is on the Upper Grassy Ledges. You can get up there by starting the first bit up to the LoLP and cutting left. I get up there by going down to the last step before stepping down to the little ledge at the top of Flying Dutchman and doing the boulder moves right there on the corner. Either way will get you there and Riverside is pretty obvious both by it's left-leaning arc and by the nice moss-carpeted ledge at the base of it.