Bugaboos conditions?

[pat erley]

I am hoping to head up to the bugaboos in a few days and am curious as to the current conditions up there. Does anyone know what the snowpack is like and if the rock on howser/snowpatch is mostly snowfree and dry? Any and all condition reports would be appreciated.

 

Thanks in advance,

Pat

[G-spotter]

Snowy and still quite a bit of avalanche hazard from what I heard. Plan on mixed climbing or something like that.

[G-spotter]

MCR from June 24

 

ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued June 24, 2010

We are slowly inching our way into summer in the Rocky and Columbia Mountains. That said, it continues to be whitish out there with snowlines still reaching relatively low elevations, especially on shaded aspects.

 

On a drive over the Rogers Pass yesterday there was snow on the bivy spots in the Hermit and Sir Donald areas. Routes facing the sun seemed like they could be climbable - it may be worthwhile checking out Tupper W Ridge or Uto SW Ridge but be prepared for snow on ledges and patches of wet rock. The west facing routes on MacDonald are getting close but I wonder about rockfall out of the gullies on that mountain with the amount of snow still up there. It's hard to know what snow travel conditions are like as there have been no reports coming in from this area.

 

Continuing on my drive over the Kicking Horse Pass there looked to still be deep snow in places like the Saddleback in the Lake Louise area. Upper elevations were very white.

 

A post from the Bugaboos indicates a lot of snow remains at the hut level and on the peaks.

 

Reports from climbers indicate people have been trying for snow and ice routes in the Rockies. If one starts early and moves fast to finish mid-day, and is lucky enough to get a clear night with a bit of a freeze, then conditions are good. If there is no freeze or the start is too late then conditions are no good. Travel on snow sounds better in the Columbia Icefields area than further south around Lake Louise. Skyladder, Athabasca N Face/Silverhorn/AA Col routes have all been climbed on cold mornings this week; Victoria N Ridge was sloppy and a group turned back from that route on a warm day. Hazards will crop up very quickly with warming daytime temperatures with wet snow avalanches, cornice falls and rockfall all having been observed recently.

 

In the lower Bow Valley the rock climbing venues are in generally good shape. Louis is still snowy as is the descent gully off Castle (eg Brewer's). Eisenhower Tower is good to go.

 

A decent forecast makes it sound like a rock climbing weekend for those who like to sleep in and possibly a sprint up a Columbia Icefield classic for those who like to see the rosy fingered dawn from high up on a mountain.

 

Mark Klassen

Mountain Guide

[jimmyleg66]

1.5m of snow at Applebee as of June 19th.

[AlpineK]

The last time I was there I didn't see a cloths line. Is there a washing machine too?

 

Nice picture.

[snoboy]

Anti Snaffle Food Hang. The hut has electricity now though, so there might be a washing machine.

[genepires]

One could kick steps half way up bugaboo spire. Kain didn't have it so easy.