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Posted (edited)

Trip: Fee Demo Wall - Middle Fork -

 

Date: 6/13/2010

 

Trip Report:

I heard about this wall a couple years ago and have been trying to get on it since, but road closures and better destinations have deterred me. Then there is the issue of finding someone who wants to climb some obscure slab crag that is probably dirty and probably wet due to its north facing nature.

So I convinced my brother, who is working on converting himself from a gym rat.

What I found was fantastic granite slab climbing that was surprisingly clean and a bit wet.

 

Mt Garfield was looking nice, but the lower slabs are still wet on Infinite Bliss.

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and it was a beautiful day in the middle fork

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We were only out for half a day and so only got two climbs in. The first was the 5.9 Million Dollar Footbridge. It was long, a bit wet, and pretty stout for 5.9.

 

Looking down from the anchors

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Not happy with climbing around wet streaks, we searched the wall for the driest climb and jumped on the first pitch of Wonderful World of Wreckreation a 5.10d of pure friction goodness! I was pretty surprised and psyched to have onsighted this one as it was my hardest slab climb to date.

 

looking down from the anchors

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My brother following

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taking a rest

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All around, I found the rock to be superb, the bolts still looking great, well placed, and nicely spaced out so you don't get the exit 38 lameness.

 

Give this wall plenty of time to dry out though, it seeps for a while.

 

Gear Notes:

Two ropes! pitches can be close to 60M and raps close to 60M.

15 draws should do you good.

 

Approach Notes:

15 minute stroll along the middle fork river trail, the wall is on your right, you can't miss it.

Edited by mountainsloth
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Posted

I came across that wall trail running three years ago and have climbed there a few times as well. Where did you get the guide? I had no idea what I was climbing . . . slab can be very scary.

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