Josh Lewis Posted May 20, 2010 Share Posted May 20, 2010 In part, thats why I am not considering this route right now. Is Chair still climbable with ice tools? I figured it was out of season. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
summitchaserCJB Posted May 20, 2010 Share Posted May 20, 2010 Ya it probably is. I wasn't talking about this season. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alasdair Posted May 20, 2010 Share Posted May 20, 2010 The route is no different this year than it is any other year. I was up on the north side two days before you guys and shot a couple of photos of the ice ramp on the the upper ridge. I have never had to climb a chimney, and in the photos I can clearly see the chimneys you guys were on. The standard way of climbing this step is on the far left side, climb a single pitch of 75ish degree ice until the rope runs out. Climb a second pitch at about 60 degrees. At that point you can basically walk to the top of the route on 55 degree snow slopes. I have looked at the right side of the ice step before and always decided it looked crappy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alasdair Posted May 20, 2010 Share Posted May 20, 2010 It looks like you camped in our campsite (or at least right next to it) that we used a day earlier. Cool TR Â Ryan, was that you in the party of two camped next to my group? Did you follow a guided group up the colman demming? If so that was me in front of you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YocumRidge Posted May 20, 2010 Share Posted May 20, 2010 The route is no different this year than it is any other year. I was up on the north side two days before you guys and shot a couple of photos of the ice ramp on the the upper ridge. I have never had to climb a chimney, and in the photos I can clearly see the chimneys you guys were on. The standard way of climbing this step is on the far left side, climb a single pitch of 75ish degree ice until the rope runs out. Climb a second pitch at about 60 degrees. At that point you can basically walk to the top of the route on 55 degree snow slopes. I have looked at the right side of the ice step before and always decided it looked crappy. After trying three different lines, I would agree that the most doable was the one on the left of the ridge. Too bad we had to learn it hard way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spionin Posted May 20, 2010 Share Posted May 20, 2010 right on, you guys! that "patterns" photo is just unreal. Â how compacted was the snow? did you have to bring flotation? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YocumRidge Posted May 20, 2010 Share Posted May 20, 2010 how compacted was the snow? did you have to bring flotation? Â We did not bring any floatation. The Heliothrope trail was pretty broken up and icy below the tree line. Once we got on Coleman in pm, the snow softened up with wet postholes above the knee but was bearable. O/N freeze created a nice unbreakable crust and easy crossing of the Roman Nose. My worst was descending the Roosevelt glacier ramp with 4 feet of wet snow balling on crampons and kicking it off every two steps and trying to stay in balance at that and not to become a permanent red spot in the crevasses down below. But then again, it is something bailout masters do . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pup_on_the_mountain Posted May 20, 2010 Share Posted May 20, 2010 Nice work, and great photos Nastia! Â FWIW, in case you have not seen it already, here is the TR by Terry from a few years back. This climb was in late July under perfect conditions, though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YocumRidge Posted May 20, 2010 Share Posted May 20, 2010 Hey Bala, Â Looks sweet, thanks. I wish we had that boot track and better ice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OlegV Posted May 21, 2010 Author Share Posted May 21, 2010 Well, thank you ALL for great compliments, we are pleased. I wish we had a 3rd person on a team, so I could take better pictures of people in struggle. We will continue our search for ultimate truth and a personal spirit development in what others consider Hell. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevetimetravlr Posted May 21, 2010 Share Posted May 21, 2010 Great TR you guys. Way to keep after it. Sounds likeyou worked all the options. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brambo Posted May 21, 2010 Share Posted May 21, 2010 (edited) Nice TR & pics. Two years ago the climbers left side of the ice tongue was pretty easy (max 55dg ice for 8-10m), this is exactly on the ridgeline  TR here Edited May 21, 2010 by brambo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YocumRidge Posted May 22, 2010 Share Posted May 22, 2010 On skis? Core. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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