[TR] North Ridge, Baker - Hardcore variation of NR 5/18/2010

[Josh Lewis]

In part, thats why I am not considering this route right now. Is Chair still climbable with ice tools? I figured it was out of season.

[summitchaserCJB]

Ya it probably is. I wasn't talking about this season.

[Alasdair]

The route is no different this year than it is any other year. I was up on the north side two days before you guys and shot a couple of photos of the ice ramp on the the upper ridge. I have never had to climb a chimney, and in the photos I can clearly see the chimneys you guys were on. The standard way of climbing this step is on the far left side, climb a single pitch of 75ish degree ice until the rope runs out. Climb a second pitch at about 60 degrees. At that point you can basically walk to the top of the route on 55 degree snow slopes. I have looked at the right side of the ice step before and always decided it looked crappy.

[Alasdair]

It looks like you camped in our campsite (or at least right next to it) that we used a day earlier. Cool TR

 

Ryan, was that you in the party of two camped next to my group? Did you follow a guided group up the colman demming? If so that was me in front of you.

[YocumRidge]

The route is no different this year than it is any other year. I was up on the north side two days before you guys and shot a couple of photos of the ice ramp on the the upper ridge. I have never had to climb a chimney, and in the photos I can clearly see the chimneys you guys were on. The standard way of climbing this step is on the far left side, climb a single pitch of 75ish degree ice until the rope runs out. Climb a second pitch at about 60 degrees. At that point you can basically walk to the top of the route on 55 degree snow slopes. I have looked at the right side of the ice step before and always decided it looked crappy.

After trying three different lines, I would agree that the most doable was the one on the left of the ridge. Too bad we had to learn it hard way.

[spionin]

right on, you guys! that "patterns" photo is just unreal.

 

how compacted was the snow? did you have to bring flotation?

[YocumRidge]

how compacted was the snow? did you have to bring flotation?

 

We did not bring any floatation. The Heliothrope trail was pretty broken up and icy below the tree line. Once we got on Coleman in pm, the snow softened up with wet postholes above the knee but was bearable. O/N freeze created a nice unbreakable crust and easy crossing of the Roman Nose.

My worst was descending the Roosevelt glacier ramp with 4 feet of wet snow balling on crampons and kicking it off every two steps and trying to stay in balance at that and not to become a permanent red spot in the crevasses down below. But then again, it is something bailout masters do .

[pup_on_the_mountain]

Nice work, and great photos Nastia!

 

FWIW, in case you have not seen it already, here is the TR by Terry from a few years back. This climb was in late July under perfect conditions, though.

[YocumRidge]

Hey Bala,

 

Looks sweet, thanks. I wish we had that boot track and better ice.

[OlegV]

Well, thank you ALL for great compliments, we are pleased. I wish we had a 3rd person on a team, so I could take better pictures of people in struggle. We will continue our search for ultimate truth and a personal spirit development in what others consider Hell.

[stevetimetravlr]

Great TR you guys. Way to keep after it. Sounds likeyou worked all the options.

[brambo]

Nice TR & pics. Two years ago the climbers left side of the ice tongue was pretty easy (max 55dg ice for 8-10m), this is exactly on the ridgeline

 

TR here

Edited May 21, 2010 by brambo

[YocumRidge]

On skis? Core.