canuck guidebooks

[forrest_m]

So I just picked up the new Mclane SW BC guidebook, and it struck me (not for the first time) how much better canadian climbing guides are. Across the board - the SW BC guide, Dougherty's Rockies guide, the various recent Squamish guides, even the Skaha guidebook for chrissake, have better photos (more readable 'cause they're on glossy paper), better approach info, handy pocket size, rounded corners for stickin' the thing in your pack.

What gives?

[mikeadam]

Maybe it's because the Europeans and Canadians seem to have a better approach to the mountains overall. This probably just trickles over into their guidebooks.

[Dan_Petersen]

Only speculation, but at least in the Northwest, guidebooks changed about the time the revised Beckey guide first came out. The 1960 version was succinct, if a little vague at times, and all the things you note about the Canadian guides. I would bet that when Fred approached the Mountaineers with his new volumes, no one was ready to function as editor for his new convoluted and wordy production. I don't think I'd be willing to stand up to him and point out the error of his ways. As they say, the rest is history.

[Cpt.Caveman]

I think Freds shit is the best. Detailed for even the least experienced person..

The only problem I see is that you cannot find all the info in one place. Obviously he knew that too and designed it that way though...

You can always photocopy what you need as I do. Ding!

Bottom line Fred's books are all you need in the WA mountains.

 

[Cpt.Caveman]

Oh yeah Forrest. Did you get the on with a ton of photos that Dru took in it? Dru is a celebrity

[Dru]

quote:

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Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman:

Oh yeah Forrest. Did you get the on with a ton of photos that Dru took in it? Dru is a celebrity

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my 15 minutes of fame is at 14:45 and rising....

 

[erik]

the major problem regarding local guidebooks is their durability. i have 2 copies of leavenworth rock with no binding. they fall apart really really fast. it is a pain in the ass. viktor, i hope you can have a better gluing for the next gerneration. i personally liked your original binding.

the new sky rock book also has a weak binding. dave was nice enough to replace one of them, but the new one has already fallen apart. the new vantage guidebook also has a weak binding.

so if anyone is making a new guidebook, please invest in a higher quality binding, i doubt anyone would mind paying a little extra for the book to last more then one year.

 

[Eerie]

I agree with your feelings towards the Skaha guidebook. Since that purchase I have used it as a benchmark upon judging all other guidebooks I have fingered (crag climbing guides to be specific).

Seriously though, should you really rely on a guidebook for every route you do? Have you ever just walked up to a route eyed it without any knowledge other than what you see and head up it?

s.lo. Eerie.

[verticalswamp]

"I just buy it for the pictures..."

It's because we are a more literal people, unable to extrapolate wildly about what is truly meant by "obvious couloir" or "2nd black gully after the wide open book topped.." with a frickin' cherry or some damn thing.

I think we have done our time with TFG, and now we are allowed to actually go climbing for the weekend.

[Dru]

The thing I hate about the Skaha guide is that the crags are arranged alphabetically so two crags miles apart are right next to each other on the page. kind of confusing at first.

for my money best guidebook in USA is watts Smith Rocks guide. photo, topo and text for every route in the book. too bad its big but you never carry a guidebook up a route with you at smith and mine is not trashed yet after owning it for 7 years.