Dragon Tail, Backbone Ridge question

[punk_rocker333]

I am planning on climbing this route this summer and was wondering what size of gear I should bring for the offwidth. Can I get by with a 4 C4 and a 5 friend or should I bring up the old #5 Camalot too?

[counterfeitfake]

The crack gradually widens. To protect it well you need a new C4 (or WC) #5 and #6.

 

I think that means an old #4.5 and #5.

 

It sucks to lug all that cam around for the one pitch. You could always run it out at the bottom or top. It might be scary.

[telemarker]

Ask yourself if you're solid on 5.9 o/w, as there will be a good 25 to 30 foot runout between your last pro and the top, which takes good gear. Sure, it's a PIA to lug a 5" piece up the entire route, but it beats sketching and retreating. Take the big piece. You'll be having so much fun you won't even notice it in your pack.

[cbcbd]

Biggest piece we took was a new #5 C4. Ended up not using the #4. The top half of the pitch is where you need the wide stuff and I was able to walk the #5 for quite a ways. If I had a #6 I'd leave the #5 behind and just walk that for the last half of the pitch.

 

Just have your second lug the cam in his pack along with the beer and ice.

[sean_beanntan]

Yea, the #4 is not much use since the crak is so wide, careful when walking up a piece, I always seem to walk it up a little too far and after I pass it, it wobbles and wants to walk. Saying that I would just take a #6 if you had it, you can walk it much higher.

[Dirtyleaf]

I would say: Forget everything but the big mean green. the c4#5 won't go that far. Go for the 6 or the old 5. The offwidth is pretty tame IMO. I would give it a .8 rating.

[mattp]

Take the biggest piece of gear you can in the range we are talking about but, seriously, don't worry about it. The crack is well less than vertical, in a corner, and you are not going to fall. You may have trouble making upward progress and you are going to want pro, but it is not the kind of crack where you are likely to really fly. Climb a few 5.9 offwidths first - like the last pitch of GM at Index, and if you can do those you'll be fine on Backbone.

[TrogdortheBurninator]

the crack is not 5.8. most people who say"be solid on 5.9 and leave the 6 behind are probably solid well into the 10s. for most folks, the 6 is basically mandatory. 5 is unneeded. 4 is optional. 3 on down is good to have.

[patob]

Take the five. Leave your pack on the ground and chimney up scooting the five along. Pretty easy without the pack.

[summitchaserCJB]

http://www.xtranormal.com/watch/6362691 Edited April 5, 2010 by summitchaserCJB

[punk_rocker333]

Wow, so much beta. I guess I should go back to GM and do the last pitch. I ended up doing the last pitch of Heart of the Country instead, it looked too good. Will probably end up bringing the old 5 camalot and leaving the others depending on my partner. I feel pretty confident on wide 5.9 so we'll see how much the rack gets stripped down the night before after a few beers. Thanks for the info.

[summitchaserCJB]

Ya. Or drink the beers before you do the route like the guys in front of us and then leave most the gear behind.

[tomtom]

I would say: Forget everything but the big mean green. the c4#5 won't go that far. Go for the 6 or the old 5. The offwidth is pretty tame IMO. I would give it a .8 rating.

 

Pfft. Only if this is your first time outside the gym. .7 max.

[AlpineK]

Matt has a good point. While wide pro can help, the offwidth is in a dihedral. You can add in face climbing moves to the mix. For an offwidth it isn't too bad.

[cbcbd]

With a recent thread on the OW I figured I'd post a pic of the OW pitch I had lying around to complement the BB OW discussions. This thread seemed semi-appropriate so here it is (click on pic for the big version):

 

[Dirtyleaf]

 

Would you like a smoke after your coffee?

[punk_rocker333]

Thanks for the beta and pictures. The big question is whether this thing will have too much snow in the second week of June to be rock climbed. Anybody have any ideas on Conditions in the Enchantments? I want to do Prussik as well as Dragontail peak.

[Dannible]

Its still winter up there. http://jensholsten.blogspot.com/ Give it at least a month.