punk_rocker333 Posted April 2, 2010 Share Posted April 2, 2010 I am planning on climbing this route this summer and was wondering what size of gear I should bring for the offwidth. Can I get by with a 4 C4 and a 5 friend or should I bring up the old #5 Camalot too? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
counterfeitfake Posted April 2, 2010 Share Posted April 2, 2010 The crack gradually widens. To protect it well you need a new C4 (or WC) #5 and #6. Â I think that means an old #4.5 and #5. Â It sucks to lug all that cam around for the one pitch. You could always run it out at the bottom or top. It might be scary. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telemarker Posted April 2, 2010 Share Posted April 2, 2010 Ask yourself if you're solid on 5.9 o/w, as there will be a good 25 to 30 foot runout between your last pro and the top, which takes good gear. Sure, it's a PIA to lug a 5" piece up the entire route, but it beats sketching and retreating. Take the big piece. You'll be having so much fun you won't even notice it in your pack. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbcbd Posted April 2, 2010 Share Posted April 2, 2010 Biggest piece we took was a new #5 C4. Ended up not using the #4. The top half of the pitch is where you need the wide stuff and I was able to walk the #5 for quite a ways. If I had a #6 I'd leave the #5 behind and just walk that for the last half of the pitch. Â Just have your second lug the cam in his pack along with the beer and ice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sean_beanntan Posted April 3, 2010 Share Posted April 3, 2010 Yea, the #4 is not much use since the crak is so wide, careful when walking up a piece, I always seem to walk it up a little too far and after I pass it, it wobbles and wants to walk. Saying that I would just take a #6 if you had it, you can walk it much higher. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dirtyleaf Posted April 3, 2010 Share Posted April 3, 2010 I would say: Forget everything but the big mean green. the c4#5 won't go that far. Go for the 6 or the old 5. The offwidth is pretty tame IMO. I would give it a .8 rating. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted April 3, 2010 Share Posted April 3, 2010 Take the biggest piece of gear you can in the range we are talking about but, seriously, don't worry about it. The crack is well less than vertical, in a corner, and you are not going to fall. You may have trouble making upward progress and you are going to want pro, but it is not the kind of crack where you are likely to really fly. Climb a few 5.9 offwidths first - like the last pitch of GM at Index, and if you can do those you'll be fine on Backbone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrogdortheBurninator Posted April 3, 2010 Share Posted April 3, 2010 the crack is not 5.8. most people who say"be solid on 5.9 and leave the 6 behind are probably solid well into the 10s. for most folks, the 6 is basically mandatory. 5 is unneeded. 4 is optional. 3 on down is good to have. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patob Posted April 5, 2010 Share Posted April 5, 2010 Take the five. Leave your pack on the ground and chimney up scooting the five along. Pretty easy without the pack. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
summitchaserCJB Posted April 5, 2010 Share Posted April 5, 2010 (edited) http://www.xtranormal.com/watch/6362691 Edited April 5, 2010 by summitchaserCJB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
punk_rocker333 Posted April 6, 2010 Author Share Posted April 6, 2010 Wow, so much beta. I guess I should go back to GM and do the last pitch. I ended up doing the last pitch of Heart of the Country instead, it looked too good. Will probably end up bringing the old 5 camalot and leaving the others depending on my partner. I feel pretty confident on wide 5.9 so we'll see how much the rack gets stripped down the night before after a few beers. Thanks for the info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
summitchaserCJB Posted April 6, 2010 Share Posted April 6, 2010 Ya. Or drink the beers before you do the route like the guys in front of us and then leave most the gear behind. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomtom Posted April 6, 2010 Share Posted April 6, 2010 I would say: Forget everything but the big mean green. the c4#5 won't go that far. Go for the 6 or the old 5. The offwidth is pretty tame IMO. I would give it a .8 rating. Â Pfft. Only if this is your first time outside the gym. .7 max. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlpineK Posted April 12, 2010 Share Posted April 12, 2010 Matt has a good point. While wide pro can help, the offwidth is in a dihedral. You can add in face climbing moves to the mix. For an offwidth it isn't too bad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbcbd Posted May 17, 2010 Share Posted May 17, 2010 With a recent thread on the OW I figured I'd post a pic of the OW pitch I had lying around to complement the BB OW discussions. This thread seemed semi-appropriate so here it is (click on pic for the big version): Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dirtyleaf Posted May 17, 2010 Share Posted May 17, 2010 Â Would you like a smoke after your coffee? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
punk_rocker333 Posted May 24, 2010 Author Share Posted May 24, 2010 Thanks for the beta and pictures. The big question is whether this thing will have too much snow in the second week of June to be rock climbed. Anybody have any ideas on Conditions in the Enchantments? I want to do Prussik as well as Dragontail peak. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dannible Posted May 24, 2010 Share Posted May 24, 2010 Its still winter up there. http://jensholsten.blogspot.com/ Give it at least a month. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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