Exit 38 - Gun Show New Routes

[Rad]

Jens put up that steep route across from block of doom. We both think 11c sounds about right. Powerful and bouldery. There is a cool route just above block of doom on the uphill side of the cave (approach from top). Felt 11-ish, assuming you don't cheat right as I did the first time.

[Frankazoid]

Hurricane: So I definetly wanted to call the route 10.c as an onsite climb. The other person I put the route up with just couldn't find a way to comfortably do the roof move, so he called it 11a. ( much more comfortable for shorties). Glad to hear about people climbing it though, regardless of whatever grade concensess there is. I wish it was at least 3 times as long! Tropicana is a great 10c roof route at amazoina.... Wish there was more of those around.

[Jens]

Plenty of new routes on the north side of I-90 that are going in on meta/granitic rock. Go get em'.

[MrGecko]

I could get under the roof and pop both hands on to the lip and then pull up. Heaving up over the lip requires a bit of juice...Why not 10d easier if your short? I see routes like the second pitch of City Park say 10b harder if your short.

 

 

Hurricane: So I definetly wanted to call the route 10.c as an onsite climb. The other person I put the route up with just couldn't find a way to comfortably do the roof move, so he called it 11a. ( much more comfortable for shorties). Glad to hear about people climbing it though, regardless of whatever grade concensess there is. I wish it was at least 3 times as long! Tropicana is a great 10c roof route at amazoina.... Wish there was more of those around.

[Frankazoid]

I really don't care what grade people want to call hurricane. I just think it's a fun short climb to do and was happy to put it up. 5.8+ whatever.

Edited July 29, 2010 by Frankazoid

[512dude]

Was out at Eastern Block and climbed the Hurricane route. Its over a little too quickly but given the nature of the area it feels like .10d to me.

 

The steep thing up the left wall in the Block of Doom alley ~.11c

 

Thx Frank, are you putting up more in the area?

[MrGecko]

The Eastern 5.7 route called EB4 has no bolts on it. I also noticed the guide calls it EB4 on one page and EB5 on the other?!?

[Frankazoid]

Well as of now I'm bumming around Sitka ak out of work... Plan was to get a new drill after workig up here... I'm about ready to go back to Seattle and try to find work. Really ichn to climb too- been 2 months. New routes are in the plans, most definetly.

[tbsqrd]

Well we're still working on a solid consensus. So far five strong climbers that I know have done it. The majority so far is 11b, but I've heard the range from 10d to 11c. I guess it's a style thing. One thing is for sure, everyone who has sent it loves it! Get on it!

And btw, Burdos climb black market is 10 feet west, when you get to the ledge under the roof look west and you can see a directional bolt cleverly placed.

 

Rusty

 

I did this climb last week and thought it was a great climb. Still some loose stuff but that is expected with a new route. As for the grade I would suggest .10d. It is definitely easier then any .11 at x38 or x32 that I have done and there aren't many that I haven't.

[MrGecko]

For those who haven't climbed the Off Ramp wall the routes are great value for the grades even if a little short. The Girls Rule route is missing the 5th bolt; looks chopped.

 

Also want to comment that the 10d and 11a routes to the right of Space Face are very soft at the given grades even for Exit 38.

[Rad]

For those who haven't climbed the Off Ramp wall the routes are great value for the grades even if a little short. The Girls Rule route is missing the 5th bolt; looks chopped.

 

Also want to comment that the 10d and 11a routes to the right of Space Face are very soft at the given grades even for Exit 38.

 

Yep. For that matter so is Space Face, but the question is are they fun? I'd say yes.

[MrGecko]

I agree Rad they are fun routes. I'm just adding my $.02 to the consensus pile for future guide books as we both know is of interest to some of us authors

 

PS. If anyone needs a proof reader I'm available eh.

[MrGecko]

Checked out the Shakespeare wall and would call the routes from left to right as Macbeth 10a, As You Like It 9, Midsummer Night Dream 10a and Comedy of Errors 10b/c. The last route on the right has some bad falls zones.

 

Also checked out the route on the way up to Shakespeare wall. It is 8 bolts on a slab that is about 5.5

 

Pic here shows the line with top anchors(thin yellow strip).