[TR] Index Town Wall - Pisces, Breakfast of Champions, Heart of the Count 3/18/2010

[Sherri]

It was only a recommendation, and I only contributed it in response to Sherri's post related to the same topic. What I spec'd is exactly what I use for the pitch, which I've climbed about 5 times in the past two years. What's your beef Choadman, too much gear or too little?

 

My rack for Rattletale isn't too different from yours. I'm sure those confident at the grade could do it with singles and/or walking gear up. I'm not there yet, but it sure is fun to try.

[summitchaserCJB]

So for Sag- I'd definitely bring a old number 5 camalot. The fixed cam is no longer there. Preferably a new 4 as well if you want to sew up the traverse but I didn't bring one. Along with nuts, a red alien, a number 4 friend, one number two, a purple metolius big cam, a number 1, and a orange alien and black medium metolius. Whoops forgot also a number 3 c4. Sorry for the list I have a photographic memory.

Edited May 24, 2010 by summitchaserCJB

[Mr. Hands]

Great TR!

[summitchaserCJB]

Thanks friend.

[RuMR]

Not to be a beta sprayer, but I'd recommend 4 #2s and 1 #3 for the onsite attempt.

4 #2's?????? are you at the creek??

[Crillz]

Not to be a beta sprayer, but I'd recommend 4 #2s and 1 #3 for the onsite attempt.

4 #2's?????? are you at the creek??

 

May want to swap out the 4 #2s with 4 #.75s so you can aid up the last bit! Not sure there are 4 placements for a #2 on that entire pitch. Maybe if you like tipped out or fixed cams and you place them all in a row.

[RuMR]

[Good2Go]

Are you talking about the 2nd pitch of Rattletale? That's what I was referencing, and my beta was tailored for somebody who would be challenged trying to onsight a splitter at that grade. It only takes a #1 at the very bottom, which becomes worthless 10' above the belay. Then it's only #2s through the end of the slightly overhanging bit. And then it goes wider to the finish. I'll bet you $20 you can't find a useful placement for a .75 on that entire pitch.

 

[Good2Go]

Not to be a beta sprayer, but I'd recommend 4 #2s and 1 #3 for the onsite attempt.

4 #2's?????? are you at the creek??

 

I wish I was at the creek! Love that place! My beta was tailored for a leader who would be pushing their onsight limit on the 2nd pitch of Rattletale. Laugh all you like, but that pitch is a vertical to slightly overhanging splitter that only takes #2s for about the first 25', until it tips back and widens. Unless you can cruise it, you are risking decking on the belay ledge by going w/ less than three #2s and even then they need to be spaced perfectly. Having four of them allows you to sew it up. I can fire that pitch pretty easily nowadays, and I still bring 4 #2's, so I guess that makes me a pussy. I'd rather be a pussy than a hardman with a broken ankle.

[summitchaserCJB]

Not to be a beta sprayer, but I'd recommend 4 #2s and 1 #3 for the onsite attempt.

4 #2's?????? are you at the creek??

 

May want to swap out the 4 #2s with 4 #.75s so you can aid up the last bit! Not sure there are 4 placements for a #2 on that entire pitch. Maybe if you like tipped out or fixed cams and you place them all in a row.

ya actually he has a point. I remember my partner having two twos and the second placement was tipped out. The threes fit better up high.

[Crillz]

Are you talking about the 2nd pitch of Rattletale? That's what I was referencing, and my beta was tailored for somebody who would be challenged trying to onsight a splitter at that grade. It only takes a #1 at the very bottom, which becomes worthless 10' above the belay. Then it's only #2s through the end of the slightly overhanging bit. And then it goes wider to the finish. I'll bet you $20 you can't find a useful placement for a .75 on that entire pitch.

 

A Shiz. I thought we were spraying about Sagitarrius.

Nevermind my spray - I don't even know where Rattle Tale is.

 

But, if you take 4 #2s, how many #3s do you take? like 6 or more?

Just F'n with you BTW.