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Posted

Hugh Banner brass offset nuts cover the same sizes as RPs, but have a shape that makes placements far more secure and versatile than the RPs. They aren't cheap though, like 13.50 a pop. The smallest size Black Diamond Stoppers fit medium RP placements, but their shape does not seem to place well.

Posted

quote:

Originally posted by danielpatricksmith:

Hugh Banner brass offset nuts cover the same sizes as RPs ...

thanks! i've been doing a little research in the meantime myself and figured as much, although the smallest HB bronze offset (.15x.22) still isn't as small as the #0 (.09x.13) and the #1 (.13x.19) RP's.

Posted

HB brass offset nuts are awesome. I took a 15 footer on the red HB yesterday and much to my surprise it held perfectly. They are also very user friendly.

Posted

I swear by the old Black Diamond copper/steels, which I think were re-named and subtley(sp?) changed a year back. I've taken monster wingers on them over and over and they are fine.

 

Their shape is great, really solid placements in all but the most flaring pin scars (and in those, not even an offset will be bomber).

 

Beyond the shape, I love the thin cables on them - a lot of micro nuts have cables so big that they get in the way of effective palacement - after all were talking about some pretty tine tapering placements anyway when you start using those.

 

FYI - I free climb (and free fall) on the copper/steels as small as a # 3. I think I own a # 2, but don't really place it for free'in.

 

Matt

Posted

I own a set of RP's because I got a good deal on them but I have used the HB offset's and they are the shit. Definetly worth the extra money, especially for the valley. Lawgoddess, I thought you were more of a sport climber?

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