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steelhead

fossil beta

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I live in T town and often go to Nbend area if ive only got a few hours. how far away is fossil and what type of climbing is it. rock type? grades? style?

[This message has been edited by steelhead (edited 06-05-2001).]

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Fossil Rock is pretty cool if you like vertical to overhanging, pumping face climbing. The rock is a volcanic, welded tuff with all these unlikely looking knobs sticking out. Many of them look like they are ready to explode but are really quite reliable, on the more popular routes anyway...

It is all bolts (there are a couple of cracks but they are pretty grungy) and there are probably 30 or so 40 to 70 foot routes. There are many 5.7-9 routes and some really cool stuff in the mid 11's. It is definately worth a few days of play up there and lots of the routes can be climbed even in the rain!

There is a guidebook out by Marlene Ford and Jim Yoder....Buy it!

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You'll need about 9 QD's, plus anchor gear. Definetely buy the guide. you can pick it up at backpackers supply in tacoma, and i think i also saw it at vertical world in seattle (yes i do go to gyms on rainy days everyone.) Some of my favorite climbs in the 5.8-5.9 range are Blown Away (5.9, has a really fun stem start, or you can start in the crack and move over) and Pump and Rest (5.9, has a really nice lean back crack about 1/2 way up) both of these are on Boyal Bobbins wall, by far the most often used wall.

I've only done a few 5.10+ routes at fossil, all on Battle of the Bulge Wall. Out of Step (5.10d) was quite fun, can get a little pumpy if you do it slow. Express Arete (5.11a) is my current favorite route so far though, used a great mix of heel hooks and body tension, with some little crimps on the right. You can either clip your way up, or if you want, lead up Mr. Meanie (5.9+) and use the same anchors to toprope the both previous routes.

Anyway, check out the guidebook.

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a buncj of extra pre-drilled river rock with some 6" bolts will be needed to!

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Bring Your brain bucket and a lot of patience for the amount of crumbling holds. It is like climbing vertical Captain Crunch Cereal tongue.gif

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I went to Fossil last winter and was expecting to hate it but actually enjoyed it. The area around Royal Bobbins Wall(?)has some fun routes. The routes aren't great but I had a great time there and am sure I will trip down there next winter again. The bolted-on holds are a @#$%! disgrace which tend to overshadow the few fun routes there.

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