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Everything posted by Mike_Buker

  1. East Wilmans Spire

    Has anyone been up this? Is it as good as the "Selected Climbs" book says? Is it worth the approach? Is there life after death, or is it all emptiness?
  2. Learning to set pro

    Tri-cams are so light, don't make noise and place so neatly! Every thing up to #4 rocks-especially "pinkie". The big ones are less cool-and I'd use a hex. Or even, ulp, a camalot.
  3. Yates Adjustable Aider

    While in Yosemite a few weeks back, not climbing El Cap, I ran into a couple that was climbing the route next to me. She was anchored into the wall with three pieces equalized and clipped to a Yates adjustable aider, girth-hitched to her harness. This set-up allowed her to instantly adjust the distance between herself and the anchor, while remaining attached. I've seen the same done with 6mil. cordage, but that required a convoluted Purcell knot. Is this an acceptable anchor?
  4. Babe boffin'

    This shit is weak. Climbing 5.12 means little if you still grovel for pussy. I'd love to learn how to achieve 5.12; instead I get some pathetic "I need a place to nut" crap that most of us figured out @ 15. Given your obvious lack of lovin'-I'd say 5' at the Snow Creek P.L.
  5. Black Peak

    I plan on approaching via Heather Pass and Wing Lake; any Beta out there?
  6. Dicks are short, routes are long

    I am new to the fear thing, but am old to the B.S. thing. I have climbed since Don Quixote was fresh in Spokane, but have learned that there is much that I don't know. Twenty bucks sez my dick is bigger than yours' and I don't climb as well. My girlfriend is 26 and Indian (and pliant). And yet I can laugh at you poor, competitve bastards. See you in 10 years.
  7. Dicks are short, routes are long

    I apologise. A few drinks, but no pills. No bud, either, sad to say. I mean Bombay, not Cherokee. And I was just kinda pissed about the whole spray karma. And so what if I took it up the shitter in jail... I'm kinda cute in an androgynous kinda way...
  8. Partners desired

    Hear hear, Lisa! I love dogs, really I do, but if I want an alpine experience, I leave the dog at home. They scare away the animals, and crap endlessly. And I really do like the marmots, 'cuz I hang up my sweaty shit. I just heard from Doug K.- he's an alpine animal.
  9. Partners desired

    Lisa kicked ass on Seven Fingered Jack, while Gordy kicked ass on Fernow. The marmots kicked ass on Gordy, and I laughed endlessly.
  10. YO

    Well, I didn't get married, although I do live with the former fiance' of my former best friend. There's a story. I haven't heard from Helen, lately-she's living with a new guy, and I don't think he climbs. Oughtta be some cheap, used gear available... I am impressed with your employment history-last time I was on Baker with you, your partner (the frostback) was driving you, and us, nuts. Yeah, I got a little pissed at your spontaneous glissade, but I had to fall to the snow in an arrest position. You are still "the shit".
  11. What is the best beer on Earth

    Why drink a loaf of bread in a can (however dark and delicious) when the refreshment of Sierra Nevada Pale Ale is available? If the alcohol is less, it leaves much more room for the next beer. When hypovolemia threatens-reach for the Pilsner that sassifies!
  12. July 8-15

    I have a couple of days off in that time frame. I prefer moderate trad and alpine to "Falling!" on 5.11c.
  13. Thanks Canada

    So, wouldn't a REAL American man kill the bear with his bare hands? Only a pussy needs a gun. I'm happy to introduce a species that makes backpacking a 5.2 YDS experience.
  14. Partners desired

    If you are the Lisa that I think you are-the one that ran up Mt Rainier a couple of years ago in front of me, while her male rope-mates were either laying in thier tent or hanging on her rope-I AM WARNING ALL OF YOU MEN OUT THERE!!! LISA IS NOT A PEAK-BAGGER, SHE IS A MOUNTAINEERING GODDESS WHO WILL MAKE YOU LOOK LIKE LITTLE LORD FAUNTELOROY. YOU HAD BETTER START TRAINING TWO MONTHS BEFORE YOU CLIMB WITH HER!!! Oh yeah, Lisa; my broken back has healed.
  15. guye peak or tooth

    I wasn't trying to lay some shit on Dan about leading anything at all; I was trying to make a point about mountaineering relativity. Multi-pitch trad climbing is a dangerous and nebulous world. Nothing but experience and education can keep you from crying to your Mama, then praying for deliverence. Dan will be ready to lead, when Dan is practiced and I'm willing to help. My dick is big enough to teach others, as well as to learn. R&D is the place to start.
  16. fossil beta

    It is as close to indoor climbing as outdoors will ever get.
  17. guye peak or tooth

    The reality is that climbing the Tooth, in no way, prepares one for the exposure and objective danger inherent in a climb like Guye Peak. I began lead climbing on trad gear this year, and feel quite comfortable leading the Tooth, with all of the relatively solid rock and comforting ledges. Then I lead Saber, a lower graded climb on Castle Rock, and nearly shat my drawers. I suspect that a multi-pitch 5.7 might be even more "pucker-inducing".
  18. The Ultimate Climbing Rig - Suggestions?

    My feeling is-Subaru. The wagon gets decent mileage (more money for gear) you can comfortably sleep in back (no tent at the trailhead/campground) and chicks dig the cigar shape.
  19. GriGri Self-Belay

    Has anyone used the Petzl GriGri as a self belay on top-rope? Any beta on technique? I used it on some easy stuff in Leavenworth, solo, but never really took a fall, other than a test from 10' up.
  20. GriGri Self-Belay

    No more Gri-Gri! I bought an Ushba-thanks Patrick-I fell on that bastard about 20 times today. Holds fast and tight. No more searching for belay slaves for my inevitable hanging. Felt comfortable, even on heinous laybacking.
  21. Do you toke up?

    I suspect that mind-altering chemicals are best as soon as your La Sportivas hit Terra Firma. And then, in large quantities.
  22. Weekend of 6/16-6/19

    I have a four-day weekend, and a jones for Midway, Midway Direct or Saber. All gear necessary will be provided, save the attentions of that "most wonderful thang". For Christs' sake get me outta the house and on the rock. I'm beggin' ya here...
  23. Weekend of 6/16-6/19

    Well, Scott, dude, I'm kinda thinkin' that a belayer might be helpful on these routes. And some of that 4-day weekend has to be spent driving and drinking. Not concomitantly, of course.
  24. GriGri Self-Belay

    I will be on TR, not lead-how about a Petzl shunt, on a daisy chain attached to my harness, above the Gri-Gri? I plan on securing the rope at the bottom of the pitch.
  25. So I climb 5.7-5.9 comfortably, have done the requisite Liberty Bell, Mt Stuart, Rainier, Constance, et al. I want to do W. Ridge Forbidden, Vesper Peak, Wilmans' Spire, etc. I have wheels, tons of pro, ropes, and time. Boy do I have time. Now I need to find someone to hold the other end of the rope. Not interested in 5.12b as much as alpine ambience. Prefer trad to sport.