pink Posted June 30, 2014 Posted June 30, 2014 Enough about JH....... Beacon is about to open. Lets get some stoke in here. What are you stoked to climb on opening week? Quote
denalidave Posted June 30, 2014 Posted June 30, 2014 Enough about JH....... Beacon is about to open. Lets get some stoke in here. What are you stoked to climb on opening week? Quote
kevbone Posted June 30, 2014 Author Posted June 30, 2014 Jills Thrill and Young Warriors (proper) are for sure on my list of climbs I am stoked to get on. I think I will be stoked to just be a Beacon again. Hell. I will be stoked to climb the SE corner. Fear of Flying will be on the list too. Man I cant wait......planning on being out there on July 15 in the evening. Quote
kevbone Posted June 30, 2014 Author Posted June 30, 2014 Enough about JH....... Beacon is about to open. Lets get some stoke in here. What are you stoked to climb on opening week? Jealousy is unbecoming of you. Quote
kevbone Posted June 30, 2014 Author Posted June 30, 2014 Anybody have a guide book handy? Who did the FA of Sufficiently Breathless? Quote
stevetimetravlr Posted June 30, 2014 Posted June 30, 2014 Scott Woolums, Bob McGown and Terry Yates, 1977. Sufficiently Breathless Why do you ask? Of course there's always the chance that someone may see this and suddenly experience an epiphany and claim the first ass sent. Quote
pink Posted June 30, 2014 Posted June 30, 2014 (edited) Enough about JH....... Beacon is about to open. Lets get some stoke in here. What are you stoked to climb on opening week? Jealousy is unbecoming of you. I'm totally jealous and a bit confused that you would want a bolt added to Young Warriors. I mean, you are the Bolt-Less Warrior, aren't you? :kisss: JIM ADD A BOLT[/color]. YW is 5 pitches. It connects with the final pitch on the classic SE corner climb to make 6 pitches in all. We toped out to the hikers trail in about 1 ½ hours. Walked/ran down trail to base of cliff again. Jaime led Crusin (5.7) and cruised it placing only 3 pieces. I led the second pitch of the SE corner up to tree ledge (this is where JH found a pile of shit), the shit was not there. We unroped and soloed together up to the “land of the little people” where we did not hang out due to showers were coming. We could see and smell rain coming. Off again up and over the notch and down to Uprising. We cruised Uprising as the rain started. As we reached the trail the rain was pouring now. Thank god it is summer or this would have sucked. We walked down the trail in a complete downpour. We started climbing at 4:30 and toped out twice and got back to car at 7:45. 1,200 feet of climbing after a long day at work is great…….thanks Jaime. Climbing in the gorge us superb. Especially in a rain storm in the summer. Gear Notes: Small rack Approach Notes: Sandals work great, five minute walk _________________________ All you need is love..... ] Edited June 30, 2014 by pink Quote
pink Posted June 30, 2014 Posted June 30, 2014 Scott Woolums, Bob McGown and Terry Yates, 1977. Sufficiently Breathless Why do you ask? Of course there's always the chance that someone may see this and suddenly experience an epiphany and claim the first ass sent. According to the BRCA rule book, the statue of limitations on FA's is 20 years so this FA has been Nullified Quote
kevbone Posted July 1, 2014 Author Posted July 1, 2014 Scott Woolums, Bob McGown and Terry Yates, 1977. Sufficiently Breathless Why do you ask? Thanks Steve. I will pass that info along. Quote
kevbone Posted July 1, 2014 Author Posted July 1, 2014 Someone asked me today about replacing the two rotten pins with bolts. I told them they need to ask the FA first. Thanks Quote
stevetimetravlr Posted July 1, 2014 Posted July 1, 2014 According to Blowhard, they need to fill out 15 pages in triplicate, get everyone and their grandmas permission from Olympia on down, kiss some ass, lick some ass, and get his special personal permission so he can personally deliver it to the Rangers and grace them with his presence and his oh so valued personal opinion of which most climbers would take a piss on.. Or they can post it here, see if the community approves and save someone's life. Like they do in Yosemite. Of course since Beacon Rock has 120 years of climbing history, and was saved from quarrying from the railroad by the early climbing community or it would not even exist today, it makes sense to ask people who have no idea or clue about protection or anchors, and who have also refused to update the climbing management plan so that fixed protection can be safe. The climbing community has bent over backwards on this, but the endless diatribes on this thread by one individual lambasting us all show that we are just a belligerent fuck the man fuck authority totslly deceptive and unruly group of professionals and business people who love to climb, but just dont meet the standards evidentially of the Park Service. Seems its going to take blood on their hands to get them to get off their ass. And put the boot to someone else's ass. Quote
kevbone Posted July 1, 2014 Author Posted July 1, 2014 I agree with everything you said except ask the community what they think. Just need to ask Bob. Which I know what he will say. Thanks again steve! Quote
pink Posted July 1, 2014 Posted July 1, 2014 (edited) I agree with everything you said except ask the community what they think. Just need to ask Bob. Which I know what he will say. Thanks again steve! yeah, and then you can lead it sans bolts, and call it " sufficiently boltless" Edited July 1, 2014 by pink Quote
pink Posted July 1, 2014 Posted July 1, 2014 I agree with everything you said except ask the community what they think. Just need to ask Bob. Which I know what he will say. Thanks again steve! here Joseph Joseph…. here Joseph Joseph Quote
JosephH Posted July 2, 2014 Posted July 2, 2014 JH. What I do know is what you say and what you do are very different. I do not feel you are credible. Please, do cite an instance of that... Well you claim to follow all the rules but i know you have illegally smoked hash out at Beacon. That's one. a) Where did I claim to follow all the rules? b) Last I checked hash was legal out there (if we're getting technical...). Quote
JosephH Posted July 2, 2014 Posted July 2, 2014 According to Blowhard, they need to fill out 15 pages in triplicate, get everyone and their grandmas permission from Olympia on down, kiss some ass, lick some ass, and get his special personal permission so he can personally deliver it to the Rangers and grace them with his presence and his oh so valued personal opinion of which most climbers would take a piss on.. Or, it could be pretty much exactly like Eldo's ACE (but, hey, don't strain yourself by clicking on this link), and my opinion wouldn't count any more than anyone else's. But then I'm sure you guys have of course thoroughly checked out that approach as an example where climbers and state parks have a good working relationship (and rejected it out-of-hand), right? Hell, pink is right there, maybe he could check it out for you or you could visit pink and meet the ACE crew and get their firsthand opinion and experience - I'm guessing they'd be more than happy to sit down with you if you gave them a shout. it makes sense to ask people who have no idea or clue about protection or anchors, and who have also refused to update the climbing management plan so that fixed protection can be safe. Wow. I'm can only guess that you somehow missed the fact that's what the 'A' in CAB stands for - yep, wait for it - 'Advisory'. But that's right, you guys don't do no stinking 'advising', nope, you jump right to claiming you have the formal authority to grant people permission to [retro-]bolt; cool, even if that's yet another 'convenient fact' you snatched straight out of the ether. And given that 'advisory' role is clearly described in the existing, if woefully out-of-date CMP, I'm guessing you either decided it wasn't worth the read, didn't understand it, or didn't like it and so decided just making up shit you did like was the way to go (not to mention more fun and a long tradition). And then of course, there's that irritatingly pesky detail where the park's budget and staff have been progressively slashed to nothing over the past few years and doubled workloads in the process. And in that workload (I'm pretty sure we can all agree) climbing concerns in general and an updated CMP in particular have naturally shot to the very top of the WSP and BRSP list of urgent priorities half of which they don't have the budget or staff to address. Yeah, sure, that's it, any idiot can see that. So yeah, in short, posts like yours actually do make you out to be "a belligerent fuck the man fuck", but then I also get that's entirely lost on you. ...and put the boot to someone else's ass. I don't know, the only thing I've seen lately is people repeatedly putting boots up their own asses. But, what the hell, it is for a good cause. And "blood on their hands", jesus, what uber dramatic bullshit that is. Hey, if you want to prevent some blood letting, try cutting back all the way over-extended studs on Stone Soup that would rip you to shreds if you fell against any of them. And exactly what has the BRCA done about fixed anchors and pro in the several years you rehydrated it? Done a fixed pro survey? Identified bad pro? Come up with a fixed anchor management component to an updated CMP? Of course not. Again, might want to take a look at what ACE does in Eldo (OMG, it's that frigging link again!). And speaking of causes, hell, maybe this would be a good time to take a shot at tackling THE gleaming $64,000 question... Does anyone here among you obviously highly informed professionals and businessfolk know the answer to this riddle: who has the [ultimate] authority to amend or lift the Peregrine closure? Anyone? Quote
pink Posted July 2, 2014 Posted July 2, 2014 JH. What I do know is what you say and what you do are very different. I do not feel you are credible. Please, do cite an instance of that... Well you claim to follow all the rules but i know you have illegally smoked hash out at Beacon. That's one. a) Where did I claim to follow all the rules? b) Last I checked hash was legal out there (if we're getting technical...). Quote
kevbone Posted July 2, 2014 Author Posted July 2, 2014 So back to stoke. Who is climbing what when Beacon opens? Quote
JosephH Posted July 3, 2014 Posted July 3, 2014 Well, if a group of "professionals and business people" can't answer that simple question and identify their target audience (hint, it isn't climbers), then that might explain the lack of any coherent attempt to market or sell their idea to the people who count. Can't sell'em if you don't know who the target audience is, but then an astute bunch of professionals such as yourselves know that. Quote
kevbone Posted July 3, 2014 Author Posted July 3, 2014 Young Warriors baby....... What do you think the grade is? Going over the bolt grade and stepping around it grade? Quote
pink Posted July 3, 2014 Posted July 3, 2014 Young Warriors baby....... What do you think the grade is? Going over the bolt grade and stepping around it grade? 5.9c/d Quote
denalidave Posted July 3, 2014 Posted July 3, 2014 Young Warriors baby....... What do you think the grade is? Going over the bolt grade and stepping around it grade? 5.9c/d Yep! Quote
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