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And for people who say not to add one bolt....I say bullshit considering pitch two has two bolts which both are not necessary.

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Can't imagine any resistance to a bolt for this variation. I did it direct on TR and its basically one hard move in the middle straight up. I see how it could be done a few ways, no matter what it needs some more cleaning to be safe and doable again. Lots of loose flakes and choss.

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Anyone been out climbing on the NW side lately, Stone Soup or Spike route or Genesis or other? Probably to wet for anything but Stone Soup and the sport routes. Whos up for sending the 2nd pitch direct variation to Young Warriors this summer? It goes at about 10d/11a, eliminating the butt pitch, could be good for passing slower parties, but needs some cleaning as chossy and mossy, and needs a bolt or two. Keep up the Stoke, summers coming!

 

are you talking bout that left facing shallow book?

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When you're at the anchor top of the second pitch of Young Warriors, it is the shallow corner down beneath you climbers right, almost a straight line down to the the 1st pitch anchors. Its not very esthetic, and doesn't have much character compared to the normal way.

 

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When you're at the anchor top of the second pitch of Young Warriors, it is the shallow corner down beneath you climbers right, almost a straight line down to the the 1st pitch anchors. Its not very esthetic, and doesn't have much character compared to the normal way.

 

i did this pitch before jim and ken did the B.H. pitch! i can't tell you how much i hate it being called the butthole pitch :ass: but it is what it is :)

 

is there still a stud there?

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When you're at the anchor top of the second pitch of Young Warriors, it is the shallow corner down beneath you climbers right, almost a straight line down to the the 1st pitch anchors. Its not very esthetic, and doesn't have much character compared to the normal way.

 

i did this pitch before jim and ken did the B.H. pitch! i can't tell you how much i hate it being called the butthole pitch :ass: but it is what it is :)

 

is there still a stud there?

 

I also hate it being referred to as that.

 

Yes, the stud is still there on the left of the three variations - left, center, and right. I'd led both left and center before it was all thoroughly chiseled out and brought down a full grade. It was obvious whoever did it did so with the clear intent of retrobolting it on top of the now way more than adequate pro they chopped out during the blatant chiselfest. It was an existing leadable variation that didn't require any bolts or excavation before and sure as hell doesn't need any bolts in it's newly manufactured state. Could just be me, but this episode completely fails the 'keeping it real' test (unless of course, that mantra is more for bumperstickers, than rocks).

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i call it "the judge" as it looks more like that old-boy from Das Wall :)

judge%2Bimage.jpg

 

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i think it should be called the "kilkenny pitch" ;), if ya knew old kenny he was pretty dramatic and he seemed to tell a story of almost dying on many climbs. i'm sure he had a similar story when he FA'd that one.

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When you're at the anchor top of the second pitch of Young Warriors, it is the shallow corner down beneath you climbers right, almost a straight line down to the the 1st pitch anchors. Its not very esthetic, and doesn't have much character compared to the normal way.

 

i did this pitch before jim and ken did the B.H. pitch! i can't tell you how much i hate it being called the butthole pitch :ass: but it is what it is :)

 

is there still a stud there?

 

I also hate it being referred to as that.

 

Yes, the stud is still there on the left of the three variations - left, center, and right. I'd led both left and center before it was all thoroughly chiseled out and brought down a full grade. It was obvious whoever did it did so with the clear intent of retrobolting it on top of the now way more than adequate pro they chopped out during the blatant chiselfest. It was an existing leadable variation that didn't require any bolts or excavation before and sure as hell doesn't need any bolts in it's newly manufactured state. Could just be me, but this episode completely fails the 'keeping it real' test (unless of course, that mantra is more for bumperstickers, than rocks).

 

do you have a picture of the whole pitch? i wanna make sure we are all talking bout the same section of rock....

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It's definitely the same stretch of rock. Leave the old p1 anchor and head either straight up, or slightly left through slightly rougher terrain, or slightly right to the small ledge and then step left across. They all put you into the small, angling dihedral which takes you directly to the p2 anchor with the left hand variation placing you in it slightly higher than the start of it.

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Oh, and with regard to the trail bridge being out and needing repair. A couple of alternatives were proposed - pull the beam and replace it (big job) or weld a section of L-beam onto it to beef it up and re-level it (pain in the ass). But as it turns out, Karl was put in touch with this old guy who fixes bridges after they've been hit by trucks. Turns out this guy says steel wants to go back to it's manufactured state and, if you know how to manipulate heat and cold right, you can put it back in to it's previous shape.

 

So they're getting a bid on doing just that and will use a prison work crew to haul six big torches and a day's worth of gas up there to do it. Sounds like voodoo to me, but then I don't know shit about steel fab and welding.

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Oh, and with regard to the trail bridge being out and needing repair. A couple of alternatives were proposed - pull the beam and replace it (big job) or weld a section of L-beam onto it to beef it up and re-level it (pain in the ass). But as it turns out, Karl was put in touch with this old guy who fixes bridges after they've been hit by trucks. Turns out this guy says steel wants to go back to it's manufactured state and, if you know how to manipulate heat and cold right, you can put it back in to it's previous shape.

 

So they're getting a bid on doing just that and will use a prison work crew to haul six big torches and a day's worth of gas up there to do it. Sounds like voodoo to me, but then I don't know shit about steel fab and welding.

 

 

damn a "chain gang", cool! sounds like a sweet name for a future beacon route...

 

 

 

Edited by pink

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damn a "chain gang", cool! sounds like a sweet name for a future beacon route...

 

 

 

Dually noted. It will be DONE!

 

Plaid

Edited by Plaidman

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would be kewler to just pull the whole thing and put in a via ferrata - grandma'll love it!

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would be kewler to just pull the whole thing and put in a via ferrata - grandma'll love it!

 

 

good idea! this country is already going EU....

 

 

 

 

Edited by pink

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When you're at the anchor top of the second pitch of Young Warriors, it is the shallow corner down beneath you climbers right, almost a straight line down to the the 1st pitch anchors. Its not very esthetic, and doesn't have much character compared to the normal way.

 

But it does have better rock and would be it would be sweet to have a better way to climb. All it needs is one bolt.

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Just about. The main beams and cross bars have been torched back to relatively straight, but it still needs to be re-decked and re-railed. They're working as fast as they can with the resources available.

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