stever Posted October 22, 2009 Share Posted October 22, 2009 I am looking at spending a month or so doing as much alpine and rock climbing as I can in the cascades this coming spring/summer. Just wondering when the best time is to get in as much alpine climbing in as possible, without worrying too much about being rained out or bad weather? I don't know where specifically, as I will be living out of my truck and tent. I have a range from end of April until the end of August/beginning of Sept... This will be my first time down in that area (I'm from Canada) so I thought you guys would be the best resource... Suggestions, comments, concerns? Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete_H Posted October 22, 2009 Share Posted October 22, 2009 The weather here isn't much different from Victoria. Your best bet is probably the month of July. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
t_rutl Posted October 23, 2009 Share Posted October 23, 2009 mid-July to mid-August if i were to pick a 4 week period...but then again it's a crap shoot...the weather could suck all summer but July would give you better glacial conditions for those apline approaches and Aug would give you those warm, dry days for pure rock but i double pete's note that here aint far off from victoria Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete_H Posted October 23, 2009 Share Posted October 23, 2009 It can get too hot in August. But it can get too hot in July. Frequently the best climbing weather is in September. But sometimes it rains all of September. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
obwan Posted October 23, 2009 Share Posted October 23, 2009 Ditto on all of the above. I'd stick with early July to early Sept - mainly for the longer days/daylight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stever Posted October 25, 2009 Author Share Posted October 25, 2009 Thanks for the replies. Sounds like early July is my best option as far as conditions go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rad Posted October 25, 2009 Share Posted October 25, 2009 If it rains on the West side you can usually head to the East side of the range and be ok. Another question is what kind of routes you want to do. A number of approaches are best when there is still plenty of snow cover. Others are better, and routes drier, once everything is dry. I suggest you rank your top choice routes and start to learn more about the best times of year to do them. Besides, plotting and planning can keep you motivated on the darkest, wettest winter days. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goatboy Posted October 26, 2009 Share Posted October 26, 2009 The bugs are extra bleak in July... just a warning. The best spring/summer climbing conditions, in my opinion, are in the fall.... cool days, cold nights, no bugs, clear skies, less people! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Le Piston Posted October 26, 2009 Share Posted October 26, 2009 I hope you have better luck with weather and snow conditions here than I've had in Canada the last 2 summers. 2008 it rained every day I was there (still got to climb, just not what I had planned) Last summer planned to climb Robson and had a storm dump a foot of new snow. But generally the last half of July through August works. Good Luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buckaroo Posted October 26, 2009 Share Posted October 26, 2009 Always thought August had the best chance for sunny days in the PNW. That also holds true for the Bugaboos, and it's the same here from what I've seen. This year was an exception. The most sun was in June/July, and August had a few days of rain. a Google of ""driest month" Pacific Northwest" has some links saying Aug is the driest and some saying July is the driest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stever Posted October 27, 2009 Author Share Posted October 27, 2009 If it rains on the West side you can usually head to the East side of the range and be ok. Another question is what kind of routes you want to do. A number of approaches are best when there is still plenty of snow cover. Others are better, and routes drier, once everything is dry. I suggest you rank your top choice routes and start to learn more about the best times of year to do them. Besides, plotting and planning can keep you motivated on the darkest, wettest winter days. I plan on starting a list soon to be as prepared as possible. Where is the best place for beta for areas in the PNW? Are the guidebooks reliable? I guess a combination of beta from TR on this site, and the guidebooks, I should be good as far as info goes? Thanks for all the help everyone! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rad Posted October 27, 2009 Share Posted October 27, 2009 The Nelson Select guides list some classics and the seasons when they are in the best condition. In addition, many wonderful routes have gone up since those came out. Blake compiled a nice list of some good unpublished routes here. Current conditions routes and way more info than you ever need can be found on cc.com. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Le Piston Posted October 28, 2009 Share Posted October 28, 2009 I have to agree wtih Rad, you will get lots of helpful information from Trip Reports here. Summitpost.org also has a lot of good information about routes here and all over the world. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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