Another Training Question...

[sklag]

Hey guys and gals,

So here's the dilemma. I currently climb 5.11a/b sport, and want to hit 5.12+ by next spring... Besides climbing as much as possible, I have a hangboard that I've been doing the generic workout with it (metolius). My problem is that I don't really know what I'm doing in regards to setting up a training regimen around increasing finger strength and thus improving climbing grades. Are there any beginner hangboard workouts/intermediate training regimen that anybody can recommend, or concepts that help elucidate "what to do when" would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Sklag

[Kimmo]

what's the generic metolius workout? if it's the 20 minute workout with x pullups every minute on various holds, it seems like a pretty good one. he's a v double digits 5.13 climber, and it kicks his ass. do that thing twice a day three days a week (monday wednesday friday) for the next three months and you'll make your goal.

[Pete_H]

Don't you have to work on technique too? or is that not cool anymore.

[sklag]

I have the smaller wooden hangboard, so the workout plan is ten minutes. Should I just cycle twice through this workout or would that be too much right off the bat?

 

[RuMR]

i find ea. 5 lb weight loss increment is worth half a number grade increase. Drop 15 lbs and you will go from 11- to 12+ or so...

[Kimmo]

I have the smaller wooden hangboard, so the workout plan is ten minutes. Should I just cycle twice through this workout or would that be too much right off the bat?

 

i don't know what that workout is.

[Kimmo]

Don't you have to work on technique too? or is that not cool anymore.

 

sure, why not. tell him what to do. i think his technique will get better as he climbs and gets stronger. and he's already climbing 11b.

 

and he might start getting on some harder climbs with someone better than him who can help him with beta and technique.