[TR] SEWS - SW Buttress 9/20/2009

[jordansahls]

Trip: SEWS - SW Buttress

 

Date: 9/20/2009

 

Trip Report:

I really really wanted to get one more climb in before the alpine high season comes to a close this year. With thoughts of clean granite swirling through my mind, I drove up to Washington pass with my friend Stanislav. We weren't sure what route we were going to climb, all we knew was that it had to be good. After digging through the Beckey book, we thought about climbing the NW corner of NEWS, however, we didn't have enough big pieces of gear. eventually, we settled on climbing the SW buttress/rib of SEWS with the 5.9 variation. All in all an awesome climb! The 5.8 crack was a lot of fun, but the variation was definitely the money pitch.

 

 

What ho! Doest thou see'est something fair moses?

 

 

Cold rock + cold gear = cold hands, Stani on the 1st pitch

 

obligatory ass shot

 

crankin' the crux while humming Russian rap tunes

 

Stanislav rockin' the rock hamster style

 

Down and out

 

Well, that looks like it. Now I get to attend school all week, and work on the weekends for the next month and a half.

 

Gear Notes:

set of BD stoppers, doubles into the 3" range. Standard rack for the most part. Could have used a few pieces in the 4" range.

 

Approach Notes:

Went direct to the saddle from the hairpin turn. There was snow at the top from a light dusting. Descended the trail to the parking lot and hitched a ride with Mal back to our car, who was very kind to supply me (I say me, instead of us, because Stanislav wouldn't touch the mystery food) with peanut butter cookies and other assorted "munchies to mow on the way back".

Edited September 24, 2009 by jordansahls

[Dirtyleaf]

Nice. Very fun route with some cool variations. From your crux picture it looks like you're taking the 5.9 layback instead of the .10 corner. Either way, very fun!

[jordansahls]

See, I originally thought that we took the 5.9 variation, but I looked at a few other TR's and they seem to verify that the crack I was on was the 5.10 crack. Perhaps someone could verify which crack is which?

[Crillz]

Nice TR.

 

Yeah, it looks like you guys took the 5.9 (really 5.8) variation. There's another line to the right that's supposedly 5.10 (haven't been on it though). At first, by 5.10b variation, I thought you were going to do the Bovine Roof.

 

You don't need that much big gear for the NW Corner on the NEWS. You could get by with a single #3 and #4 BD. If you're uncomfortable on the wider part of the "offwidth" corner, you can always walk the #4 for a few moves.

[jordansahls]

Here is a picture, the route in red is the route I took, and I assume that it is 5.9, the route in blue must be the 5.10b corner, huh?

 

 

I will say, that I have done a lot of 5.8 trad climbing this year, and this crack felt a hell of a lot harder than 5.8. I can see it being 5.9, but 5.8 it ain't, otherwise the 5.8 second pitch cant be harder than 5.5.

[Dirtyleaf]

You got it.

[Crillz]

Yup, you're right on the 5.10 line in blue.

 

I'm not sure I would call the 2nd pitch 5.8 either, if it is, it's only for 1 move or so. Anyway, thanks for the TR and pics. That mountain is Saweeeet!

[jordansahls]

Thanks for the input and helping to clear that up. This was by far one of the better routes I have been on this year. Tons of fun, I'm looking forward to heading back next year to get some more action from the liberty group.

[goatboy]

Crillz, regarding the NW Corner route, there's a decent section of the "undercling flakes" (the pitch before the offwidth corner) that gets huge for about 10 feet, just as you're leaving a big ledge... I think it's sandbagging to say that you can walk the #4 up for a few moves when it's actually a pretty big fall you're looking at if you only have a single #4.

 

It's easier climbing than it appears to be, but is definitely not protectable or straightforward with a single #4 for that section.

[LostCamKenny]

Pretty sweet! nice pics! nice tr!

 

how necessary is the 4 inch cam? You oviously did the route w/o it but would it have made it much easier(less sketchy) if you had one? does the weight of the cam justify takin it along?

 

 

[Dirtyleaf]

I think it's sandbagging to say that you can walk the #4 up for a few moves when it's actually a pretty big fall you're looking at if you only have a single #4.

 

Why would you want to stop to place/or walk a cam on this section? Straightforward layback. Heady exposure for sure but easily done with one #4.

[Off_White]

Are we talking about that wide layback that starts from the ledge after the first undercling on NW Corner of NEWS? Takes you up to the smaller undercling-layback section before the belay? Does a #4 even fit in that thing? I recall it being really wide and the only thing to do was suck it up and climb.

 

Oh, and thanks for the TR on this route, its on my list for the next outing into that cirque. I love how you guys went from too cold to wearing shorts, the late alpine season is so schizophrenic.

[Dirtyleaf]

You can place a #4 at the bottom. And then you spread on the go sauce, and go.

[Crillz]

When I did the route, we linked the two flake pitches into one, but it's the upper undercling that we're talking about. You can easily get a #4 at the bottom, and then it's sending time. I didn't mean walking a #4 up this part - What good is stopping halfway through this crux to place gear?

 

I was talking about walking the #4 up the wide section off the big horn belay.

 

I've seen someone whip off the the flake in question too! Exciting and a pretty decent sized fall for sure!

 

 

[jordansahls]

Pretty sweet! nice pics! nice tr!

 

how necessary is the 4 inch cam? You oviously did the route w/o it but would it have made it much easier(less sketchy) if you had one? does the weight of the cam justify takin it along?

 

 

No, I don't think you need it for this route. I think it would have mostly served as psychological pro. I never found myself in a situation like the guys are describing on the NW corner of NEWS. Yeah, there are a few places were you could use the #4, but its never your only line of defense against taking a heinous whipper.

[goatboy]

Sounds like we're all on the same page - I just wanted to be careful about sandbagging people for the undercling pitches, which are easier climbing than they appear to be, but which require a willingness to layback and GO for like 12-15 feet after placing a big piece, in a very exposed spot... SPICY!