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Posted
And you have nearly 4 times that number in less time.

 

Well, since you keep posting on these Beacon threads Lance, we could have made you an honorary Beacon Wanker: but you still climb too good to get into this crazy Wankfest.

 

Maybe later when you're old and fat as you'd fit in better with the rest of us spray cube keyboard warriors.....jus' sayin' is all...

 

:wave:

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Hey, I was climbing at Beacon yesterday and the only one out, whats up with that. A little rain throw the cabash on it all? Pretty sketchy free climbing in those conditions I have to say. Anyway, I see a bunch of the guys I have met up there post here. Its great to have met you guys this year up on the ledges. Jim, Scott, Kenney, Joseph, Ivan. Jim I have ran into a bunch, the guy is always on it. Scott I met you when you were climbing with Jim. Joseph, only saw you opening day but sure you been getting it done. Kenney, you are a funny guy and last I saw you we had come off the ledge and Rick had led up by headlamp, and you guys were hanging waiting your turn. Ivan, you were up on the solo aid route, so never got a chance to shoot the bull with you, but good job. Stoked to be back climbing at Beacon this year with Rick and looking forward to many more days this Fall. I still have not met Bill Coe but someday. Rock on.

Edited by stevetimetravlr
Posted

you n' rick were roll'n in the the finest style i perhaps seen steve! i gotz ta catch up w/ ya'll ont he ledge someday :)

 

what were you doing yday? was thinking of going aiding sunday...

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

yeah mon, me and Rick were having a good time that day! We haven't been out at Beacon lately as we went to Index last week for 3 days aid climbing on the upper Town wall, Green Dragon and Dana's Arch, then free climbing on the lower wall. I love that place. I did Town Crier back in 1978 and againt this spring, and to go there brings back a ton of memories, most of which make me wet my pants. I think the weather window is closing on the season for both Index and Beacon, but still hope to get out and get some more stuff done at Beacon. Me and Rick were talking about doing Ground Zero after hearing about Scotty doing it, and seeing Ivan on it. Looked righteous, one more window is all we ask!

Posted

since when did the weather have to be good for aid-climbing? :):P

 

in real foul weather, there's a great route on the n side that stays dry always, and the village route off the left side of the party ledge is pretty dry too (especially for the belayer :) )

Posted

plenty of clean aid out at beacon, even in the rain - the only routes i've needed hammers on are fresh squeeze and the pipeline headwall - the village route off the ledge goes clean, having a big piece in the #4-6 range is good (a #4 alone will do) - i usually bring a single hook, but my boy mike did it w/o one - the route will top out, but i still havne't done it - looks like a 1/4 pitch or so from my new anchors to near the rap tree on uprising

 

village goes as c2 i reckon - good fun - would be a little wierd to solo as it's a long traverse

Posted

a bit more, certainly at the top, but not as long as dana's i'd imagine (22 meters from ledge to anchor) - certainly steeper to start though :)

 

the last pitch i'm hoping to do this weekend in the suck

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