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East face routes up three fingers


LaughingSquirrel

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The crazy guy (Chris Chistianson?) who use to run around around out there made reference to attempting it multiple times on his website.

 

For what it's worth I've been right up next to the thing (climbed the snow gulley that crosses it) and thought that the rock looked much better than rumor had it. In fact there were some long vertical systems that looked quite good. The east buttress of the middle peak looked like a sick mini-bigwall.

 

IMHO The future of Cascades mixed climbing lies on that face. Catching it in good condition will require years of fortitude and a big dose of luck.

 

Bottom of East Face of Middle Peak towers above our heads

1403fingers1.jpg

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Like usual Scurlocks pics are amazing. I was just looking out at the East Face from Squire Creek Wall last weekend and was amazed at the bomblast looking rock debris on the snowfield below the North Peak on the East aspect. It truly looked like a crater caused by massive mortar fire.

I believe I remember hearing about someone doing the 45dg couloir on the East face a number of years ago. Does anyone else remember this?

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