East face routes up three fingers

[LaughingSquirrel]

Does anyone have any beta on routes up the steep east face of three finger?

[lunger]

will be curious to hear what you find.

as i recall, Beckey used "evil" in his description of the face...

[dberdinka]

The crazy guy (Chris Chistianson?) who use to run around around out there made reference to attempting it multiple times on his website.

 

For what it's worth I've been right up next to the thing (climbed the snow gulley that crosses it) and thought that the rock looked much better than rumor had it. In fact there were some long vertical systems that looked quite good. The east buttress of the middle peak looked like a sick mini-bigwall.

 

IMHO The future of Cascades mixed climbing lies on that face. Catching it in good condition will require years of fortitude and a big dose of luck.

 

Bottom of East Face of Middle Peak towers above our heads

[LaughingSquirrel]

Were those vertical systems complete? Yeah I know beckey describes it as "evil" but I look at that north face of baring and think if that eventually went, there has to be a way for it to go. Lots of aid and iron for sure.

[dberdinka]

Of course! 5.7 A1 tell us how it went.

[Choada_Boy]

Have you checked out Scurlock's PICS of the face?

[Pilchuck71]

Like usual Scurlocks pics are amazing. I was just looking out at the East Face from Squire Creek Wall last weekend and was amazed at the bomblast looking rock debris on the snowfield below the North Peak on the East aspect. It truly looked like a crater caused by massive mortar fire.

I believe I remember hearing about someone doing the 45dg couloir on the East face a number of years ago. Does anyone else remember this?

[Choada_Boy]

Yup. Darin and I climbed the couloir in Feb of '06. John Frieh and partner picked the plum (NE Face) a year later.