Web-o-lette as belay anchor around bomber boulder?

[SplashClimber]

What are opinions (bad, ok, good) on the acceptability of this setup using a web-o-lette: feed each eye-let end of web-o-lette around a bomber tree or boulder, tie a figure-8, join the two eye-lets ends with a master biner. Use this setup for your belay.

 

I have asked Mountain Tools for some advice also, but have not heard back. This scenerio (above) is not described in their usage document, and there are some statments that lead me to believe this setup may not be ok.

[counterfeitfake]

I don't understand exactly what you're describing, maybe you could take a photo or draw a picture. What do you mean by "feed each end around a tree"? What is the figure 8 for?

 

It's probably fine though.

[LostCamKenny]

Natural anchors always give me a warm fuzzy when i see them. if they're solid, just sling the damn thing and bring up your second.

[SplashClimber]

Here is a picture of the setup question....

 

I know I am opening my self up here to graphic ridicule, but I did the best I could with the picture. I just wanted to show how the web-o-lette would be wrapped around the boulder (of course the web-o-lette will be hidden behind the boulder!). This could just as well be a solid tree. In my case I am talking about use the "official web-o-lette" you can purchase from Mountain Tools (instructions on their web site: Mountain Tools Web-o-lette instruction page. The web site list this as a "dont't": DONT's [1. first point omitted] 2. Never clip into the sewn eyes of the Web-o-lette® except for attachment to protection points. This prevents weakening or possible failure of the sewn eyes do to improper loading.

 

It would be nice to hear back from Mountain Tools on this, but may never hear back. So would be curious if this setup is "bad", "ok" or "good". It sure seems like the sewn eyes should be able to take the load, but very nervous about the Mountain Tools instruction DON'T quote (in red above).

 

 

 

[Crillz]

Splash,

 

I've done that many times. Also, you could just wrap the rope around the rock or tree several times for your anchor - depending on how/if the climb continues.

 

Edit: I've never used the webolette you speak of, but you clip into the eyelits anyway right?

 

 

Edited August 27, 2009 by Crillz

[SplashClimber]

So see my boulder picture in my post reply below. The fig-8 would be in case one of the sewn eyelets blows/is torn apart.... this way the other eyelet would possible hold the whole setup.

Edited August 27, 2009 by SplashClimber

[SplashClimber]

This picutre is one for the most-typical typical usage of the web-o-lette, where the two sewn-eylets go into the pieces of protection. Very fast and simple to rig.

[Crillz]

I'd say you're gold!

[dberdinka]

Their disclaimer definitely says don't clip into the eyelets as your belay point as they might fail. However that sounds ridiculous.

 

I'd guess their concern was someone might clip one end to their harness and the other end to a a belay or piece of protection and then take a static fall on it which could generate some pretty high forces.

 

But for what you want to do you will be absolutely fine. I'm so sure of that I'll promise to even cover the costs of your funeral if it fails.

[Crillz]

 

All I can think is - ur gonna die!

[SplashClimber]

Ok Crillz, which is it.... gold or die? Just to be sure... I think by the rolling smily you are saying Crillz that I am gold? Just want to be sure! Thank-you so much for the help!

 

All I can think is - ur gonna die!

or .....?

 

I think your're gold

[selkirk]

Your settup is just fine. I do that all the time with My web-o-lette. I think what they mean by "don't clip the eyelets" is really "don't tri-axially load your master/powerpoint biner". If you just slung the boulder but didn't tie the Figure 8, then the biner would get pulled in 3 directions (your tie in, and each eyellette). But when you throw the powerpoint figure 8 in, the biner is only getting loaded in 2 directions (powerpoint and you) which is how they were designed to be loaded.

[SplashClimber]

I'm so sure of that I'll promise to even cover the costs of your funeral if it fails.

 

Thank-you for keeping the post interesting! Love it! You should be ok on the funeral cost. I do not really like them [funerals], and don't plan on having one anyway.

[Crillz]

Ok Crillz, which is it.... gold or die? Just to be sure... I think by the rolling smily you are saying Crillz that I am gold? Just want to be sure! Thank-you so much for the help!

 

You're gold on the webolette issue. I was really laughing about the funeral comment - almost spit water on my desk.

 

Also, don't forget, depending on the situation - wrapping the rope around the boulder a few times might save time!

Edited August 27, 2009 by Crillz

[counterfeitfake]

Yeah, that looks fine to me. I think the figure eight isn't really even necessary. I don't fully get what the manual says but selkirk's take on it seems reasonable.

 

Crillz has a good point on using the rope, too.

[SplashClimber]

Also, don't forget, depending on the situation - wrapping the rope around the boulder a few times might save time!

 

I am curious about how to use the rope instead of the web-o-lette, but suppose I should make this a separate post (?).

[fheimerd]

A cautionary tale. Was in the buguboos a few years ago and heard a horrible rockfall accompanied with a scream. Ended up the guy had slung a table sized boulder and rapped off it. It didn't work out. I was part of the crew that packed up his belongings to be sent back to his family.

[SplashClimber]

... guy had slung a table sized boulder

My boulder picture illustration was not the best to have used either [let's assume it is a very wide shot of a boulder the size of a house ] I try to use huge boulders (SUV size?), or wedged well and so on, and ones that are NOT on sloping ledges.

 

But you submit a good real-life warning for all about using boulders! It must have been very hard on you to be a part of this tragedy.

Edited August 28, 2009 by SplashClimber