Craig Luebben dies on Mount Torment August 9th

[Lowell_Skoog]

When I climbed the Torment-Forbidden traverse we traversed into Torment Basin from Boston Basin then followed a gently glacial remnant up to the base of the south ridge. No sketchiness and a nice start to the route. In part we went this way due to getting screwed on the Taboo Glacier many years prior. I just looked in "50 Favorite Climbs" and it describes starting via the Taboo Glacier, presumably the current version of PMS' Select guide has the same info.

 

Might be nice to get the word out, particularly to visiting climbers, that there is a better, or at least safer, start to the route than that commonly described.

 

Agreed. I've climbed Mt Torment five times and four of those times were via the south ridge. I climbed the SE face with my wife on the 4th of July many years ago but I've never gone that way again. (I think of the SE face as a descent route.) The original Cooper-Sellers climb of the Torment-Forbidden traverse climbed the south ridge of Torment (the first ascent of that route).

 

I've never climbed Mt Torment after July. Like a lot of North Cascades peaks, it is safer and easier when there is more snow on the glaciers and couloirs.

 

[Trent]

My condolences to Craig’s family and friends. My heart goes out to them, and I hope that they get the support that they need in this difficult time.

As climbers we all accept a measure of risk presented by objective dangers that is difficult to quantify or even identify in some cases. This fact was highlighted to me on Mt Terror last month when I took a lead fall and broke both legs. Although I do not remember anything about what caused my fall, my climbing partners said that a large piece of the mountain calved off and I went with it. As a climber and a Navy carrier pilot, I have always taken the attitude that I can effectively manage the risk presented to me, and that I can learn from other’s mistakes and try not to repeat them. I thought that this would keep me safe enough. This is not always the case, as I found out. The fact is there are events that could occur that I cannot predict and have absolutely no control over, and these events could end my measly existence. Acceptance of this fact is extension of how I deal with my everyday life. If I knew that I was going to get into a fiery crash on tomorrow’s flight, I would not go flying, or even go to work. Even crossing a busy street (especially now in a wheelchair) presents one with some risk. If I knew that I was going to fall, I would not have climbed the aptly named Mt Terror. But it could happen. Understanding this and accepting the risk is a part of alpinism. But knowing the risk presented and making risk management decisions that are appropriate to the individual is critical. Some of us are willing to accept more risk than others both in life and in climbing. To me personally, the risks that I accept in climbing are worth the rewards that I reap.

[Chris_Moorehead]

I briefly met Criag Saturday morning in the Marblemount Ranger Station parking lot. He was sorting his gear and I asked him where he was headed, he said Forbidden. One of my friends who headed out with me this weekend had been thinking about doing the TFT, but decided to come with me instead (Elephant Butte sufferfest). I have a young daughter just like Craig and this hits me really close to home. I don't climb routes as hard or dangerous and the TFT, but regardless this really bothers me. I've already had one friend who had to be rescued off Hood earlier this summer, and basically bushing by someone who died a short time later, ....