Yossarian Posted July 30, 2001 Share Posted July 30, 2001 After the drizzle this weekend I'm now betting on a sure thing, Smith Rocks. Are some of the routes down at Smith closed due to nesting falcons? It seems hard to believe considering their popularity. Is it possible to tyrolean off the Monkey's Face? Looks like it's close enough to the rim. It will be mt first time down there so any recommendations concerning routes(<5.11) or local bars is appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted July 30, 2001 Share Posted July 30, 2001 Good routes to do <5.11, not necessarily the best but a few favorites: Pack Animal Direct soft 10b on gear Zebra Zion 5 pitch 10a gear Phoenix 10a bolts Screaming Yellow Zonkers 10b bolts 2 ropes to get off Monkey Face Pioneer Route 5.7 A0 Super Slab 5.7 3pitch gear Teddy Bears picnic 10a/b 2 pitch sport Lions Jaw 5.8 gear Karate Crack hard 10a gear Tammy Bakers Face long 5.9 sport to belay & short 10c sport above BBQ The Pope 10b sport spooky bouldering to 1st bolt (cheat sticks are weak) Spiderman 5.7 2 pitch gear There is a 50+ route update to the guidebook available at smithrock.com Have Fun. Check out the huckleberry ice cream at Juniper Junction right outside the park gates. Ask at Redpoint Climbers Supply for directions to the free camping area (its out by Lone Pine) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob_Clarke Posted July 30, 2001 Share Posted July 30, 2001 Last weekend was fabulous. No crowds. No closures. White Satin Zebra/Zion Heathans Highway Darkness At Noon Heinos Cling Churning Magic Light License to Bolt Great Weekend! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yossarian Posted July 30, 2001 Author Share Posted July 30, 2001 ahhhhh....pure raw beta. No spray, no fluff, no smilies. Thanks guys! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted July 30, 2001 Share Posted July 30, 2001 yeah you can tyrolean off monkey face or even slackline it if you are into that shit. but you will miss the worlds best 48m free hanging rappell if you do.... my favorite part of climbing the pioneer route was watching my buddy catch his aider (hanging off the back of his harness) on a bolt while seconding the 5.7 pitch out of the mouth, and get stuck, unable to move up or down. he busts out with an "OH FUCK TAKE!!" and Beth Rodden, who is cranking the 13c start pitch to Just Do It nearby, looks up and over with this look on her face like "who is that total gumb who is hanging on a 5.7 on TR????" hee hee. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gapertimmy Posted July 30, 2001 Share Posted July 30, 2001 you sure can't call smith a sure bet today. i drove home last night from seattle, and it was constant rain straight from Madras into Bend, and its still grey and drizzly. WTF!? I thought I left this shite in seattle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jblakley Posted July 30, 2001 Share Posted July 30, 2001 One to add: Moons of Pluto. It's next to Screaming Yellow Zonkers. Beautiful arete with a nice little mini-roof pull at the end. Definitely in my top 5 list. For trad definitely Zebra Zion. I plan on going down this weekend (Aug 4th and 5th). Maybe we can hook up. Let me know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Yount Posted July 30, 2001 Share Posted July 30, 2001 Smith routes (mostly sport) under 11 that are very good or otherwise entertaining (entertaining being the emphasis) and quick approach. 9 and 10C (2 pitches) Nine Gallon Buckets, you never climbed huecos before? this is some wild stuff. crux on 2nd pitch hits just after belay (many lead straight thru to top anchors - uhm there are 2 anchors for end of top pitch and I think a 50m will lower you to ground from lower anchor up top) this new route would be on page 73 #21B and on pp 77 it sits right of #23 and just left of the crack 7 or 8 Five Gallon Buckets 1st clip is a bit elevated (this is Smith, consider getting used to it for the classics or use stickclip or beg somebody to help or choose another route), this new route pp75 #35B going up the left side of the leftmost line of huecos also seen on pp77 just right of #37 9 Light On The Path also climbs huecos pp75 #35, there's a thread most girth hitch as pro enroute from the left getting way up to that first bolt and some even use the first clip from Five Gallon Buckets just to the left 6 (8) Zebra first pitch pp75 #34, same start as last 2 routes, after clipping bolt on 'Light continue traversing right, crossing a new line (I call it Gumby Direct) and finally joining Zebra Direct's easy top portion. Do this on a weekend and you're SURE to make friends 'cuz this wall gets way crowded. Watts says it's 6 but I think it compares to other 8's 10C Gumby Direct, start as for Gumby but continue straight for 4 more clips rather than traverse right, pp75 #33B (finishes left of #34) I've watched leaders fall on that 1st bolt time after time after…. Makes me wonder…. Does a bolt's placement weaken with such brutal treatment? 9 and 10C (10A/B) (2 pitches) Tammy Bakers Face spooky first clip then sweet slab ambling slightly runnout, crux hits near top but many cheat the vertical exposed sweet moves by bailing right, way right, pp77 #41 8 Hop On Pop pp79 #45 9 Snuffy Smith Buttress new route pp79 #45B (line not shown in topo) begins 20-feet left and 20-feet up from #45, since it's not in 1992 guidebook people don't know about it and it's reliably available, as well as being a fine fine route with exposed moves up top 10A ?name? Begin 25-feet left of previous route, solid chimney start (stem, stem, stem!) but many stickclip 1st bolt and many think at first it's 10B. Second pitch is 11A, pp82 #45C just right of #46 crack 6 Easy Reader pp91 #3 8 and 7 (2 pitches) Ginger Snap steep and thin with elevated 1st clip (trad pro available) pp91 #5 and now do 7 Cinnamon Toast (it now has 6 bolts rather than only 2) sweet exposure with unique line and great position, pp91 #7 begins at top of previous route and that other bolted line leading slightly right from top of Ginger Snap is a 6 or 7, not recommended 10B Wedding Day nicely sustained arete, pp96 #34 your first visit to Smith, you're looking for 8's 9's and 10's, then I wouldn't recommend 10B BBQ The Pope, 1st clip is way up there, I've watched more than once as it's sticklipped while the leader is already 12 feet off the ground wielding the pole way up there…… 9 and 10A (2 pitches) Revelations, pro available to first clip, pp111 #21 and now do 10A Heathen's Highway second pitch, this line of bolts is hilarious! I gave a name to this second pitch of HH and recommend it highly, Ten Pounds Of Chicken (long story.,…) or choose 10B Nightingale's On Vacation (layback, layback) for the first pitch to get up to Ten Pounds of Chicken and the line of bolts that goes straight rather than zig-zag is 10B do you like to layback? 10B Double Trouble pp 113 #33 unique 10B Lake Of Fire, new route pp113 #40B interesting and varied face, cruise all the way up to same anchors as 7 Dancer pp 113 #42 8 and 10C Sky Ridge and Sky Dive, the position is classic - everybody will watch your ascent, but the 8 is way runnout (some creative small pro available) pp120 #2 and pp119 #2 also shown on front cover. 10C up top has great exposure and fun committing moves. Rap off the back face and come back over Asterick Pass on the trail 6, 7, 9 (3 pitches) White Satin, 5.6 bolted pitch, 5.7 somewhat awkward gear, 5.9 gear feels easier for many than previous pitch, pp119 #6 10B JT's Route, new route pp122 #18B very very very nice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob_Clarke Posted July 30, 2001 Share Posted July 30, 2001 Wartley's Revenge - Way fun. Crossfire - Bring your "A" game. Vomit Launch - Awesome. The Blade - Take your courage. Monkey Space - Absolute must do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
haireball Posted July 31, 2001 Share Posted July 31, 2001 I see nobody has mentioned Moonshine Dihedral - 5.8, trad, would be a classic anywhwere and add another voice for Zebra/Zion 5.9-10a depending on which way you do the crux, and for Karate Crack - the name says it all - it's short, but wound tight enough that few lead it cleanly the first time... and Calamity Jam - 10c although if your fingers are as big as mine, it seems considerably harder... these are all older, trad lines. There is certainly an abundance of bolt clip-ups, and I've done enough of them to offer the opinion that "ya done one, ya done 'em all" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EddieE Posted July 31, 2001 Share Posted July 31, 2001 good suggestions ya'll Add the right leaning crack to the left of BBQ the Pope (look out for the flaring part at the top) and if you decide to lead BBQ the Pope without a stick clip, remember: deep breaths. The climb to the right of Five Gallon Buckets: Light on the Path (5.9) is good if you see it open. You can also climb two 5.8 cracks to get to the start of the bolt ladder for Monkey Face, but the rope drag sucks. Don't miss the cool rappel from the top Super Slab is a great warm-up, too. Definitely stay at Grasslands (the free camping spot) and check out the Tex-Mex/Pizza place on the highway north of Madras. And, yeah, don't miss the ice cream! Have a great trip! [This message has been edited by EddieE (edited 07-30-2001).] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockrat16 Posted July 31, 2001 Share Posted July 31, 2001 To get info on route closures, go to: smithrock.com - it gives you all the skinny on what is happening in the area. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew_Grove Posted August 1, 2001 Share Posted August 1, 2001 Some additions to Idea Guy's post. Which are all excellent suggestions. "Gumby Direct" has been called Walk in the Sky and Morning Sky; everyone agrees it's 10c. The .9 on Snuffy Smith Buttress is Snuffy Smith. The .10a to the left is No Golf Shoes and a bit chossy at the top. The second pitch is very chossy and rains on the belayer. The girth-hitch thread for Light on the Path has been supplemented with a bolt. And speaking of Smith Rock -- does anyone know the name of the guy who put up Snuffy Smith and No Golf Shoes. Erik somebody? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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