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gkdmaths

Unicorn Peak beta?

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I searched and read all of last years TRs about the Tatoosh traverses, but I wanted to know if anyone had been up Unicorn this year?

 

Basically, how are the rap anchors on the summit block looking this year?

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Bonus!

 

I'm taking a few guys I sport climb with up, I havent been in quite a long time.

 

It'll be a terrific day and a nice change in scenery from little si.

 

thanks man!

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Not sure if you've already made the trip -- but the rap anchor is in descent shape. The old tree on the summit block is dead, but it is fairly large and the root system seems intact -- kicked it fairly hard. Placed a second runner at the base...

 

Was up there about a month ago...

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You might emphasize to your sport partners that the 'rock climbing' on this hike is short, very easy, and uninteresting. At least that was my impression of the uphill lines. Combine with Castle and Pinnacle for a nice x-country outing. The real reason to go is the front row view of the big R.

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For those looking to know, 7/25 we took crampons and ice axes and used them both. Also glad to have taken along the swimsuit for a dip in Bench lake - the water was perfect.

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You might emphasize to your sport partners that the 'rock climbing' on this hike is short, very easy, and uninteresting. At least that was my impression of the uphill lines. Combine with Castle and Pinnacle for a nice x-country outing. The real reason to go is the front row view of the big R.

RAD

Did you climb the many routes on the horn of the Unicorn?

 

An ice ax is nice for chop'n steps on the approach, I have climbed the horn in Tevas, The mountainsteers rope up,that could be the smarter move.

The castle can be death choss except for the SE open book route and hard to downclimb

Just some thoughts for the masses

Richard :wave:

 

 

 

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You might emphasize to your sport partners that the 'rock climbing' on this hike is short, very easy, and uninteresting. At least that was my impression of the uphill lines. Combine with Castle and Pinnacle for a nice x-country outing. The real reason to go is the front row view of the big R.

RAD

Did you climb the many routes on the horn of the Unicorn?

 

Not quite sure what you mean. I chose a line climber's left of the rap line because it looked harder and more interesting- and we'd humped rock gear up there so by golly I was going to use it. It was still only a few moves of 5.6 or so protected by a couple of nuts. I'd agree that the rap route is probably low 5th class and could be easily soloed by a competent party, though a fall wouldn't be pretty.

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You might emphasize to your sport partners that the 'rock climbing' on this hike is short, very easy, and uninteresting. At least that was my impression of the uphill lines. Combine with Castle and Pinnacle for a nice x-country outing. The real reason to go is the front row view of the big R.

RAD

Did you climb the many routes on the horn of the Unicorn?

 

Not quite sure what you mean. I chose a line climber's left of the rap line because it looked harder and more interesting- and we'd humped rock gear up there so by golly I was going to use it. It was still only a few moves of 5.6 or so protected by a couple of nuts. I'd agree that the rap route is probably low 5th class and could be easily soloed by a competent party, though a fall wouldn't be pretty.

Sorry Rad I must have misunderstood you I thought you did it without gear, I did it years ago and Becky’s guide book has unicorn listed as 3rd class or the harder routes as 4th class, I did it in Tevas as at the time I was doing most scrambles so I thought it was fun and sporting, I only downclimbed the se route, maybe that’s the rap route that you are referring to, I still have only a 15 year old Becky guide, is there more recent updated beta?

I thought the scramble of the se open book of the castle was much harder and a spooky downclimb.

 

 

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