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dinomyte

[TR] Mt Hood - South Side 6/6/2009

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Trip: Mt Hood - South Side

 

Date: 6/6/2009

 

Trip Report:

So, I won't make this a full-blown TR, since I'm pretty sure that most folks know the route.

 

I'll just say that this past Saturday, conditions were damn near perfect. The only downside was the 30mph sustained winds all the way to the Hogsback.

 

Interestingly on the route up from the Hogsback and onto the summit, wind was pretty much non-existent.

 

There is a staircase from the Hogsback up, complete with intermittent holes on each side, that one may totally self-belay all the way up and back.

 

A few teams were rapping off the summit down the chute slightly to the right of the route up.

 

At about 5:30, the snow was nice and firm. Had the staircase not been there, I would have pulled out my tool. As it was, the axe and pons were fine.

 

It appeared to be a pretty light day, with only 11 people on the summit at 6am. I passed about 10 more as I was heading down to the Hogsback and there were a good 20-25 waiting at the Hogs.

 

I have some pics if anyone wants.

 

Gear Notes:

Axe, pons, and helmet all went on right below the Hogsback at the top of whatever dirty ridgeline that is.

 

Approach Notes:

It gets cold standing in the wind for 45 mins waiting for your buddy.

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It's a decent gap. Not sure i even got any shots of it, since this year's "standard route" is a good 60 yards to the left.

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we're there saturday morning, or saturday night into sunday? my buddy was there, on the summit apx 7 am. on the way down said some guy went tumbling head over heels down the chute towards crater rock. he is not the best at giving a good picture of what happened, so was wondering if you were there, or if you heard about this at all. He made it sound like a bad fall, but said the guy was just a little bruised and banged up. doesn't sound too bad to me!!

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If you happened to take any photos of the route after leaving the Hogsback, I would very much appreciate your time to post several of them.

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I was there on Saturday morning. I left T-line at 12:15 am and was on the summit by 6:00am. I'll admit that I did not stick around long, probably only 15 minutes, and there were tons of people heading up, incuding a number who were unroped like me.

 

I did not hear about the fall, but can definitely say that conditions were good at 7am. The sun should not have even hit the face by then.

 

I'll also admit to facing in for the first hundred feet or so down from the crest. I know people say it's not steep, but if you were to catch your heel or something you'd definitely end up down the hill a ways.

 

I have a couple picks of above the Hogs. I'll try to post them after a bit.

 

 

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I was up there Sunday am when the guy fell. I was with a few new (the brand spankin variety) climbers; not the best thing to watch when you're that new.

 

The guy was downclimbing, slowly. I can't say exactly why he fell...that was the only part I didn't see of the fall. His tumble started about 100' below the summit ridge and continued til 20' or so before the hot rocks. He pinwheeled for the first 100' and then started rag dolling (apparently unconscious). There are three things about the fall i can't explain, how he's alive, how he managed to cross two ropes and not take anyone with him, and how he didn't break anything (from what I heard). When he fell I was right at the top, so I didn't head down to him, but he was quickly attended to by someone who seemed to have the qualifications (WEMT or higher is what I heard yelled...I think). He was quickly cleared of head/spine and they had a team help him down to the base of Devil's Kitchen, from there I understand they arranged a snocat to meet them at palmer to take him down. Hope he's healing well.

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I second the good vibes to the guy. Sorry you and your crew had to see that. Certainly never a good time, even if you're a veteran climber.

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:lmao:Thanks for the pics. As an Eastcoaster due there this Friday, it's nice to see the route as it has changed a bit since my last visit 3 yrs. ago. I, too, hope the guy who took the slide is doing well.

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There was an ER doc, and a nurse on my buddies team that downclimbed to attend to him. haven't heard their version yet. They were leading a group of mixed new/intermediate climbers, and saw this on the way down.

Glad the guy is ok! doesn't sound like a good thing to watch.

 

dinomyte, great pics man. Thanks

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Hey I was up on Hood this sunday, and my petzl glacier axe fell off my pack on the way down. I was below crater rock when it happened, but I am not too sure where exactly. If anybody found it please let me know and you would make my day!!!

 

(209) 613 7800

 

Thanks guys!!

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Climbed the Old Chute on 05-30-09. Apologies for the late input.

No ropes, no fuss.

Started at Timberline at 12 midnight, past the tent city above the IR at 4.00 a.m., summit at 5.30 a.m., breakfast on the summit at 5.35 a.m., back to the car at 9.00 a.m.

For the reasons unknown to mankind, some days in the chute are worse than just a zoo (see pics).

Icy and cold before the sunrise, a way colder than in December when we did West Crater Rim with Olegv.

I witnessed a snowboarding accident of a guy descending the icy Chute who lost his grip and was sliding down for about 150'. His randonneeing friend made a wise decision to stop after taking two turns and to downclimb it instead. I still keep wondering why would anyone even think about doing something like that before the sun significantly melts the snow.

 

Gear notes: helmet, crampons, axe and second tool (useful on the downclimb to make your own path to stay away from mega roped teams)

 

North Face summit ridge: Rainier, Adams and St. Helens

P5301070.JPG

 

P5301078.JPG

 

P5301071.JPG

 

P5301074.JPG

 

P5301067.JPG

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I was up there the 30th also, about 1/4 up the chute, when the snowboarder fell. I could not understand why he would attempt to descend when it was so icy he could hardly get on his board and there was a scant 30-40 foot wide path down between the masses of climbers. As he descended (not on his board) over half the chute with legs/board flailing on one end and an ax in one hand I was sure he was going all the way to the hot rocks. At the last second he did a great job of self arrest. Fortunate everyone else was already or able to get out of the way. Could have been nasty.

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Wow, now that is just asking for an accident! If one person falls, it would be like bowling for climbers!! How many can you take out??

 

Great pics btw!!

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