[TR] Blackbeard Peak - North Ridge 5/30/2009

[Trent]

Trip: Blackbeard Peak - North Ridge

 

Date: 5/30/2009

 

Trip Report:

Since I have not seen a TR on Blackbeard Peak lately, I thought that I would throw this one out there and update the masses on conditions. Having been away for over three months, being out of shape, and contracting some sort of foreign stomach bug, I was looking for a moderate alpine warm-up to get back into the mindset for the summer. Heinrich and crew were headed up to South Hozomeen for the weekend and invited me to accompany, but my memories of getting rained out and poking my eye out (it wasn’t even fun at that point) on the brushy descent were still all to fresh in my mind. So I gave Dallas a call.

 

“Let me check the file” he said. Dallas does not have a little black book, instead he has an entire file cabinet filled with data and topos on prospective routes and climbs as well as beta on climbs that he has done. “I have the perfect one” he tells me. “The North Ridge on Blackbeard!”

 

Well, first on my mind was where is Blackbeard, and do we have to wear pirate getup when climbing it? (And should I be posting in the pirate’s forum?) Although Blackbeard was not in my copy of the CAG, apparently it has made the third edition. Dallas has climbed the peak several times, and suggested the name Blackbeard for the location; near Black and Graybeard Peaks. The first known ascent of the peak was by John Roper and Ron Aronoff, who at the time suggested the name The Adolescent. A LINK to John's website with a good shot of the peak. It is the Peak labeled elevation 7241 1.7 miles northeast of Black Peak on the USGS maps, and is clearly visible from the North Cascades Highway. According to Dallas, they had climbed a couloir up the North Face, the North Ridge was still an unknown.

 

This trip appealed to me. A moderate route up an easily accessed peak with Dallas. Dallas has always had good luck in the mountains, and at seventy still climbs well. We recruited Scott as our third, and we were off.

 

Leaving Anacortes early we parked by mile post 155 on the North Cascades Highway and were post-holing through the rotten snow by 0630. Apologies for no overall route or mountain picture, my camera apparently was unhappy with the early wake-up and was punishing me with being unable to focus.

 

The crux of the trip:

 

 

After crossing the creek on a somewhat slippery log, we made a rightward traverse uphill to gain the ridge. Once on the ridge, the climbing was moderate and fun, with great views into the North Cascades. We encountered some steep snow punctuated with some scrambling, including a section of knife edge ridge. One step of low fifth class had us rope up. The rock was variable, in some places loose, but in others compact and solid.

 

The Ridge:

 

 

 

 

 

Dallas looking mean:

 

 

The low fifth step:

 

 

After making the summit and signing in (yes there is a summit register) in 4 ½ hours, we relaxed and took in the views. The descent starts off on the south side of the peak, and wraps around to get to the East Ridge. After re-crossing the creek on another log we were back at the truck with daylight and energy to spare. The perfect trip for me that day!

 

Descending with Corteo Peak in the background:

 

 

Another log!

 

 

I would only recommend this climb as an early season outing. The combination of brush and exposed rock would make the climb a lot less enjoyable.

 

 

Gear Notes:

Ice axe, pickets, and a couple pieces of small pro.

 

Approach Notes:

Park at mile post 155, cross creek on a log, traverse right and up to gain ridge.

Edited June 3, 2009 by Trent

[LostCamKenny]

Nice pics, looked like a good time!

[Stefan]

great to see Dallas still getting out!

[plexus]

A lot less snow than the time I ran up that with Scott and Dallas. How active was that face shedding snow when you guys were climbing up the gully?