North Bend Beta

[mzvarner]

still pretty new to trad and multi pitch. made two runs up castle rock in leavenworth. i heard there is big routes around north bend. if so how are the routes and is there a link to were i can check em out... thanks

[obwan]

See the above thread on "Infinite Bliss".

[mzvarner]

how is that route. i have heard of it but not much

[ilookeddown]

FYI the access road is washed out so it is now an 18 mile approach at least until late summer.

[mountainsloth]

there are no large, trad, multipitch climbs in north bend. The closest thing you will get is maybe some alpine climbing farther into the alpine lakes.

[512dude]

Any links for information on the wash out? Where is the road closed? I was heading in to take another run on it to best the car-car record...dang!

[mountainsloth]

http://www.fs.fed.us/r6/mbs/conditions/road-closures.shtml#rdfiftysix

 

road 56, mile post 12.45 taylor river bridge

[matt_m]

You mean this washout?

Edited June 17, 2009 by matt_m

[matt_m]

Just and FYI to the OP. IB is NOT a small undertaking and if you're just starting out WAY out of your skill set right now. Not trying to be condescending, just being truthful.

 

Edit: Realized I still sounded like a duche. Basically you're looking at a STEEP approach followed by 23 pitches of climbing. The climbing can be runout, there's challenging route-finding in places, a funky bit of 4th+ class with no pro or anchors etc etc. Then you add in the raps down (figure 4 hours if you haven't done a lot of long and sometimes wandering raps)

 

I'd check out some more stuff in L'worth first. Condormorphine Addiction or link Heart of Gold to Prime Rib? (not sure on that without my book) Or head up to Darrington / 3 o'clock rock.

 

Longer Trad stuff in the PNW is really the domain of UTW at Index, WA Pass or Squamish.

 

Edited June 17, 2009 by matt_m

[matt_m]

Any links for information on the wash out? Where is the road closed? I was heading in to take another run on it to best the car-car record...dang!

 

512 - was just up on 6/13. I've done IB twice now (need to check my CTC time). The taylor bridge is out - see above pic. There's a HUGE tree leaning against it that gives access to the far side OR someone has rigged a cable Tyrollean as well. (I did the tree as I didn't feel like getting the gear out then) It does add a bit of time to the approach as you now have to hike to the TH. (20-30min? I wasn't paying attention this time).

 

The big news for you is it's WET up there right now. Lots of water coming down. P6 (as you leave the lower slabs) has water all over it (waterfall on a few of the bolts). I think you could climb around it to the right (bring some gear). I bailed as the weather was threatening (thunder and a few drops) and I didn't feel like rapping off the wet chains INTO the water. Hit up Fee Demo instead.

 

M