Golden Road: Bring a wrench

[Sol]

If anyone gets up on golden road on the UTW anytime soon, do us all a favor and bring a wrench to tighten that upside down bolt on the roof of the last pitch. Nut was half threaded off yesterday. Have had to hand-thread that bitch on lead everytime i've climbed the route .

[Wakaranai]

Being my weak state of fitness I think we will aim for Heavens Gate, but if for some reason we get a sudden burst of new found energy I will bring a wrench. Is it a 3/8 or 1/2"? cause it would be nice to have a box wrench to really cinch her down. That thing needs a little Lock Tight or somthing, it was loose two years ago too. Speaking of bad bolts how about the 11c var. of Centerfold. Every bolt was on its last thread last year.

[Sol]

ya know brandon i'm not sure on the size. i did notice that some of the bolts at the belay (though bomber) were different sizes. sorry.

 

what's up with the 11c variation on centerfold?

[pindude]

Hey! Any monkey knows a 9/16" wrench fits a standard 3/8" nut. Uh, what's the whole point of this thread? Sheesh, you guys need to broaden your horizons.

[billcoe]

Roofs probably should have a nylon insert locknut

 

-or-

 

Blue or red loctite. You can often pick up climber sized loctite knock off at auto parts stores for a couple of bucks, not the extravagant sum the normal stuff costs.

[Blake]

Brandon, if you climb Heaven's Gate with a 60mm rope, you can then rap back down Golden Road (plumb line, each rap is ~28m) and tighten the bolt (if you can reach it under the roof while on rappel). Obviously not a nice thing to do if the route is occupied.

[Alpinfox]

The bolt in question is pretty close to the lip of the roof, so I think it would be accessible on rappel.

 

There seems to be a mixture of 1/2" and 3/8" bolts on that route. Unusual. There was also a loose nut on one of the bolts at the anchor before that roof pitch. I finger tightened it, but some loctite/silicon tape/rubber washer and a wrench would be ideal.

 

 

Thanks to Sol for ropegunning me up the route on Wednesday! It's fun to climb above your ability level every once in a while.

 

I think I may have even uncaged my soul a little bit - it's pretty sore now.

[DCramer]

I am pretty sure the bolt at the roof is 1/2".

[Sol]

I am pretty sure the bolt at the roof is 1/2".

 

yep it's a 1/2 incher, rapped past it today, but forgot my wrench at home! doh!

 

I did a bit of community service though by gardening Senseless Thoughts of Paranoia. So rad.

Edited May 30, 2009 by Sol

[Wakaranai]

Cool Ill hit it on the way down tomorrow. The UTW rocks!

[Wakaranai]

Bolt is nice and tight now.