Wilson Glacier Headwall beta wanted

[DPS]

I am looking for beta on Wilson Glacier Headwall route. Is it worth doing? How steep? Rack recommendations?

 

Thanks,

 

Dan

[max]

Dan:

 

I climbed this route in... 1999? We didn't bring any rack other than the standard pickets and screws for a glacier. It was pretty early season, thought. We did climb through the top rock step belayed by climbing down into the moat, but no gear.

 

It was a fun route up. Nothing more technical than, say, the north face of the north twin (i think this could have been early during a high snow year). We acsended into a whiteout, and by the time we reached the top of the Wilson glacier, we were in a complete whiteout. We sat for a while to see if things cleared, but the mountain is rounded enough there so we never could see anytthing but glacier. We descended back into the Wilson route, but that could have been tricky if we'd gone much farther. My advice: don't get to far past the top of the Wilson w/o a good plan for finding your way back into it.

 

We descended in whiteout/rain. It was a little nervy being in the Wilson with stuff sluoghing left and right (literally). I rememer the Kutz being a major squish hazard in the bottom quarter of the Wilson. Light feet makes quick work.

 

I'd also anticipate a fair amount of scrapnel if you do it in "warming" conditions.

 

Overall: I'd do it.

 

[KaskadskyjKozak]

I am looking for beta on Wilson Glacier Headwall route. Is it worth doing? How steep? Rack recommendations?

 

Thanks,

 

Dan

 

We peaked over at that route last year from the top of the Fuhrer Finger. It looked pretty straightforward - contiguous snow, a little steeper than the finger.

 

 

[Maxtrax]

I don't have any beta on that route unfortunately but I have considered climbing it a few times and I believe Sky has skied it. The south Tahoma Headwall is a more intriguing route to me than the Wilson.

[skykilo]

The Wilson Headwall could be worth climbing. In the area, I'd recommend the Kautz Headwall for a similar rockband-laced steep snow climb with more climbing and less objective hazard.

 

I know of at least five different people who've skied the Wilson Headwall, not that it matters.