CollinWoods Posted May 6, 2009 Share Posted May 6, 2009 I was thinking about doing Stuart in the next 2-3 weekends from now up the Cascadian Couloir... I was wondering if anyone knows how the conditions are up there or can tell me how the avy danger is in the couloir. Thanks a lot, Collin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevino Posted May 6, 2009 Share Posted May 6, 2009 (edited) The road is still a ways from being open to Esmeralda TH. Genearlly by late May avy danger in the stuarts is pretty low, if not earlier. Just get a partner and go climb Sherpa Glacier instead. Much more scenic that side if you're looking for an easy outing. Edited May 6, 2009 by kevino Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CollinWoods Posted May 6, 2009 Author Share Posted May 6, 2009 Since we dont have much for a trad rack, is that is a route you would still recomend? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DPS Posted May 6, 2009 Share Posted May 6, 2009 I just climbed Sherpa Glacier two weekends ago. All it requires is an ice axe and crampons. No rope or rack necessary. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CollinWoods Posted May 6, 2009 Author Share Posted May 6, 2009 Thanks Kevin and Daniel. Do any of you have any beta on the Sherpa Glacier route? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DPS Posted May 6, 2009 Share Posted May 6, 2009 Follow the approach to Mt Stuart north side routes (e.g. Ice Cliff Glacier). Climb the obvious, broad glacier climber's left of Ice Cliff Glacier. The glacier necks down to a narrow ~40 degree couloir at the top. From the col climb snow slopes west to the summit. To descend retrace your steps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevino Posted May 6, 2009 Share Posted May 6, 2009 Not that Dan's direction's weren't good enough, a little visual stimulation never hurt: Sherpa Glacier is the last Glacier/snow visible on the left, you'll continue up the gully that angles to the right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DPS Posted May 6, 2009 Share Posted May 6, 2009 A picture is worth a thousand words. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shannonpahl Posted May 6, 2009 Share Posted May 6, 2009 Does anyone have recent beta on the ice cliff conditions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted May 6, 2009 Share Posted May 6, 2009 I'd guess it's nearly all snow right now... I bet if you stayed on the climber's left side you wouldnt have to climb much ice at all. The exit might be sporting a mini cornice this time of year but nothing that would give you the smusho. If you're hoping for some ice climbing I'd give it a week or two. And also consider Stuart Glacier Couloir or Jason's Esophagus on Argonaut... great routes in that area. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ropegoat Posted May 6, 2009 Share Posted May 6, 2009 John, You want to go hit one of those great routes this weekend??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted May 13, 2009 Share Posted May 13, 2009 Anybody been in since all the snow that fell last week? Bootpack into Stuie currently? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telemarker Posted May 13, 2009 Share Posted May 13, 2009 Anybody been in since all the snow that fell last week? Bootpack into Stuie currently? John, here's a recent, kick ass photo of Stuart from just last week. Stuart N. Side Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted May 13, 2009 Share Posted May 13, 2009 Nice pic! Bootpack anyone? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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