glen Posted May 10, 2002 Share Posted May 10, 2002 Anyone up for running up some routes at Index? It's early in the season so I'll look to be leading 5.8's, but will follow harder. Open to doing aid too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glen Posted May 10, 2002 Author Share Posted May 10, 2002 Forgot to mention the day... Saturday. Too much at work, I guess... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted May 10, 2002 Share Posted May 10, 2002 Does anyone know of a 5.8 route at Index? Have fun glen... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottP Posted May 10, 2002 Share Posted May 10, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Lambone: Does anyone know of a 5.8 route at Index? Have fun glen... Only the ones I've done: Â The first pitch of The Ave. The first pitch of the G-M route The Lizard Both variations of the first pitch of Even Steven Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glen Posted May 10, 2002 Author Share Posted May 10, 2002 Lambone, Remember when you hopped on Princely Ambitions thinking the '5.8' in the guidebook was correct? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted May 10, 2002 Share Posted May 10, 2002 hehehe yup, that ain't no new school 5.8...but hey what are you trying to say! Did I look scared or somethin'! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glen Posted May 10, 2002 Author Share Posted May 10, 2002 I was on the easy end of the rope, so I can't say a thing. I do remeber thinking, "Shite, this is pretty stout for 5.8..." and "so that's why he said "watch me" ... not bad if you're expecting 1960's yosemite 5.8's. It is pretty stiff if you've gotten softened by most of the grades in WA though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bronco Posted May 10, 2002 Share Posted May 10, 2002 more good 5.8 climbs out there  Al's armed response (the start is moss and brush but it's worth it )  CF route (havent done it but it looks good)  Who Put the Purr in My Pussy (on my list to do)  Senior Citizens in Space (good views of the town) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted May 10, 2002 Share Posted May 10, 2002 Is Senior Citizens an 8 in the new guide??? Fun pitch by the way. Â Timberjack is OK. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bronco Posted May 10, 2002 Share Posted May 10, 2002 quote: Originally posted by chucK: Is Senior Citizens an 8 in the new guide??? Fun pitch by the way. Â Timberjack is OK. Yes! and it felt like every bit of an 8 to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted May 10, 2002 Share Posted May 10, 2002 Another note about Senior Citizens...I think this is a good one to practice real-world gear placing skills. You know, once you've graduated from the Great Northern Route. Â It's got cracks that suck up cams and stoppers. Â It's got good stances at the bottom so you can begin by sewing up. Â Higher up, it gets more pumpy and you'll need to do some one-handed placements. Once you're up to that point though, the fall is pretty clean. Â Once you've mastered that one you're ready for Battered Sandwich and Magic Fern. They'll EAT YOU ALIVE . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glen Posted May 10, 2002 Author Share Posted May 10, 2002 Is that advice for Lambone? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted May 10, 2002 Share Posted May 10, 2002 Got anymore free advice chuck? Â No, thats cool...where is Senior Citizens anyway? I thought that coner crack up at Toxic Shock wall was 5.8, at least by Yosemite standards. Â Maybe the only overrated route at Index! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted May 10, 2002 Share Posted May 10, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Lambone: Got anymore free advice chuck? Sure do...you'd get less death threats if you'd stop being such a tool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bronco Posted May 10, 2002 Share Posted May 10, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Lambone: ...where is Senior Citizens anyway? I thought that coner crack up at Toxic Shock wall was 5.8, at least by Yosemite standards.  Maybe the only overrated route at Index! Senior citizens is at Private Ideeho  I agree with your assesment of Toxic Shock. I think it's a great beginner's hand jam except the sketchy move into the corner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted May 10, 2002 Share Posted May 10, 2002 Oh yeah, that move of the ledge! Been a while since I been on that one. Cool spot though. Perfect mossy hands! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted May 10, 2002 Share Posted May 10, 2002 I"M GUNNA KILL YOU CHUCK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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