mike1 Posted April 25, 2009 Posted April 25, 2009 I'm looking at the Pickets in late August early September and I’m assuming the Challenger will be completely opened up by then... Does anyone have any war stories about traversing it that late? Good? Bad? Ugly? Or just Challenging? Any late season pictures? We'll probably try it either way... just thinking it may add some time... THX! Quote
Toast Posted April 25, 2009 Posted April 25, 2009 Crossing that bergshrund might be a bit of a challenge. I can imagine things getting pretty chopped up on the way there too. Quote
marek Posted April 26, 2009 Posted April 26, 2009 Crossing that bergshrund might be a bit of a challenge. I can imagine things getting pretty chopped up on the way there too. Ehh!, It should not be that bad. Shrund? That might be the only problem, otherwise it should go into late season. We did it July'ish? and I do not recall jumping over anything; that's if you're arriving at Perfect Pass end. Still worry? Do the Shwack Eli-Wily, and you're on the shoulder. Quote
mike1 Posted May 3, 2009 Author Posted May 3, 2009 No worries really... just thinking ahead is all. I was planning it from Perfect Pass end and I'd take a technical glacier problem over a shwack any day. Quote
Toast Posted May 3, 2009 Posted May 3, 2009 the schwack isn't that bad. I've been in both ways, and both were super enjoyable with amazing views. If I were to go in again, I'd try going over Watcom Peak. As far as the route being chopped up later in the season, I don't know. That was pure speculation. That shrund is big though. You can climb around to the left from what I hear. Quote
mike1 Posted May 3, 2009 Author Posted May 3, 2009 the schwack isn't that bad. I've been in both ways, and both were super enjoyable with amazing views. If I were to go in again, I'd try going over Watcom Peak. As far as the route being chopped up later in the season, I don't know. That was pure speculation. That shrund is big though. You can climb around to the left from what I hear. Well, since you put it hat way... it does sounds like a good if not pleasant option. Something we can decide when we're looking at the route from Perfect Pass though? Talk to Wayne 1112; he's been there. Thanks! I shot him a PM. Quote
curtveld Posted May 3, 2009 Posted May 3, 2009 I'm headed up there in late July, so am following this also. Heard from one group last summer that got shut down at a big crack near the top of the glacier. Not sure what month or how hard they tried to get around it, but I'll probably pack a screw or two. Let me know if you hear anything interesting. Quote
mike1 Posted June 28, 2009 Author Posted June 28, 2009 still working on my plan for the pickets... does anyone have any first hand beta on this potential link up? Quote
wayne Posted June 28, 2009 Posted June 28, 2009 O-H col is in great shape in both directions right now.. Quote
mike1 Posted June 29, 2009 Author Posted June 29, 2009 Thanks Wayne. Late August though? I was assuming we would be dealing with some bergshrund issues, but recent information coming to light leads me to believe we should be able to rappel past the cracks onto the Mustard glacier. Good to go! Thanks all. Mike Quote
wayne Posted June 29, 2009 Posted June 29, 2009 What link-up are you going after that goes from Challenger to O-H Col? Or is that a different trip? A little tease here.. there should be a tr soon about an fa done on the N face of the Southern Pickets up soon! Quote
mike1 Posted June 29, 2009 Author Posted June 29, 2009 South to North actually. I'm thinking about coming in from Stump Hollow and up CC, climbing Terror - west ridge and other pickets along the way then going through the O-H col. I guess it's not really a "link-up" per say... more like a bypass to the McMillan Creek basin traverse. We're on a tight schedule so I was hoping this would save some time and allow for more climbing opportunities. Having said that, we are still undecided on the route. Quote
mike1 Posted August 22, 2009 Author Posted August 22, 2009 Got the route fairly dialed... Anyone have recent beta on the Challenger Glacier conditions? Quote
Glenn G Posted August 25, 2009 Posted August 25, 2009 We were in there last week. Challenger glacier is fairly broken up but you can find your way through without too much trouble. The schrund is actually no problem at all; there is a huge snow bridge that will almost certainly last the rest of this season. Quote
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