Trip Logistics Neurosis

[TXNoob]

I'm planning on a trip to climb Hood's south side in May. I want to take the TMG alpine skills course and then rely on an experienced partner to help me find my way up the summit (I don't want to pay TMG's exhorbitant guide fee).

 

Things I'm neurotic about:

Partner flaking out

Crappy weather (I've only got a 2-day climbing window)

 

I'm going to spend a lot on air fare and lodging, so I want to make the most of my trip. If partners and weather don't cooperate, what to do? With the cost of my trip, I'd prefer not to sit in the lodge and drink beer. I can do that at home.

 

Any suggestions for a backup plan?

[DPS]

If you are already throwing down for airfare and lodging and are worried about not having a volunteer guide come through, why not just spend a little more for the TMG summit climb? Seems penny wise and pound foolish to me.

 

About the weather: Hood has an early season, and in this neck of the woods early season = unpredictable weather. Here is my suggestion: climb Mt Baker after July 4th. You will have a better shot at having good weather and Baker is a very cool mt. Several guide companies offer summit climb/courses on Mt Baker.

[TXNoob]

Why the recommendation for Baker and not just waiting until July to climb Hood?

 

 

[mkporwit]

Why the recommendation for Baker and not just waiting until July to climb Hood?

 

 

Because of what DPS said -- the south side of Hood has an early season. No one climbs it in July due to objective hazard.

[TXNoob]

Okay. I see what he meant now - not that I haven't heard of people climbing Hood in July. Isn't Baker an overnighter? I think I remember reading that.

[mkporwit]

Baker has routes on it that can be done as a day climb. The Easton Glacier is one such route, as is the Coleman-Deming.

[TXNoob]

Yeah, got some beta from SP that says those routes can be done in a day. Both of the guide services I've seen have only multiday iteneraries though. And the cost is nearly twice that of the TMG guided trip. My brother is going with me and I don't think he has any overnight gear.

 

Thinking I'll probably just spend the extra couple hundred bucks for the TMG guided trip. Still sucks to pay so much money, just so I can make sure I have a partner. Plus I can't help but feel like it's cheating to do half the route in a snow cat.

[Bigtree]

Why would it feel like its cheating? You're going to drive up to the parking lot I bet, so what's the difference of another 3,000' of diesel powered assistance?

 

I found my Hood climb last June to be rather circus-like in general (and I didn't use the cat by the way). Hordes of climbers and skiers much of the way. Felt like a bus stop at rush hour waiting at the Hogsback for a bit of a clear spell and constant fear of getting taken out like a bowling pin by someone taking a tumble at atop the Pearly gates all added to the thrill and unique ambiance.

 

Not that Baker can't be busy and goofy on a long weekend, but I would pick it hands-down over Hood. Easton via Railroad grade route is rarely busy and very straight-forward. I think Coleman-Demming route is way better as a day climb though.

[dgleighton]

Not that Baker can't be busy and goofy on a long weekend, but I would pick it hands-down over Hood. Easton via Railroad grade route is rarely busy and very straight-forward. I think Coleman-Demming route is way better as a day climb though.

 

The Easton route is a beautiful approach in July. Can jam up a bit at The Roman Wall but there will be more people on the Colman(well maybe not this year with Glacier Creek Road blown out). Not to mention if you do the Easton You can look directly into the crater of an active volcano! Can't do that everyday.

[genepires]

For the money, the skills learned on baker along with a summit of baker will be superior to hood. I don't know the costs but I do know those mountains and there is no comparison. Baker is a real mountain with much better glacier climbing. (plus the hood zoo factor makes it one I wouldn't want to go back to)

 

Like Dan stated, you are spending good money to get here. Spend the extra whatever hundred dollars and have a great time instead of a good time.

 

Learn and summit on baker (mid to late july) from pros then go do hood on your own, maybe even solo.

 

enjoy our mountains on your trip!

[dgleighton]

Learn and summit on baker (mid to late july) from pros then go do hood on your own, maybe even solo.

 

By late July there will be some good route finding opportunities

as the Easton begins to open up a bit due to its southerly exposure. Though it is not a very technical climb it is one I've enjoyed a number of times.

[Jeff W]

I too have never climbed Mt Hood and had thought about doing so in May or June. I have read/heard that it is the most-climbed mountain in the US, with over 10,000 people climbing each year. However, I find it confusing when I read numerous posts that talk about a 50' knife edge ridge that will make your ass pucker if you have the guts to cross it, and the route through Pearly Gates is not what it was five years ago. How in the hell are 10,000 people climbing this mountain every year? Is there a month or two where the south climb is relatively straight forward?

[Bigtree]

That's the mountain last June:

 

 

That's the the dog route up from the parking lot:

 

 

That's a picture of the fun part from the Hogsback up:

 

 

That's a picture of one of my mates on the infamous 50' knife edge ridge:

 

 

That's the summit:

 

 

You can form your own opinion on how 10,000 people a year and probably a number of canines make it to the summit each year.

 

[Jeff W]

My initial opinion is that there are probably a lot of people on the mountain that should not be there...