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Posted (edited)

craig mcgee drove the area yesterday, and here's what he reports:

 

 

 

Drove through the Duffey lake area yesterday and this is what I saw. If its not mentioned here it was probably not "IN" as I took a good look around.

In the early morning light "Entropy "looked in? "that could mean anything in that light"

Looked like you could scratch up something in the "Syco pillar" area (mixed routes only)

No ice at all on "Blue moon on rye"

"Dream Catcher" looked like it would be climbable

Looked like most of the regular climbs at the "Rambles" were in, however they looked quite thin compared to normal.

Carl berg was NOT in

The first pitches of "loose lady" were in. I tried to see the upper pitch, but could only see the ice on the last few feet, so?

"Synchronicity" was in, however the first few feet of the first main pitch looked very thin or rock .

"Honeyman falls" looked climbable, but there was a hole with open water in the middle up top.

Most of the climbs in Marble canyon looked climbable. The lower wall had lots of ice, but thin in places. The top pitches on "Icy BC looked climbable, but very hard"

It was -22 at the Rambles and -30 in marble canyon...

All in all I was surprised to see very little free water that could freeze in these temps. It looks like it must have been very dry up there for the past few weeks, hopefully it warms up at bit!

 

 

 

thanks to craig for the effort and bruce kay for passing this along. kinda worrisome that i've now heard a cpl reports mentioning lack of running water to continue to build the ice. it'd be a shame if this cold snap didn't herald a superb season. maybe this current snowfall will help.

 

cheers, don

Edited by Don_Serl
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Posted
Lytton

 

Oct Precip 40% of normal

 

Nov Precip 68% of normal

 

Dec so far 32% of normal

 

top that with thin to no snowpack, then bitter cold, and it's no surprise there's not much water running 'upcountry'. sounds like Hope and Squamish are doing better...

 

cheers,

Posted

WE climbed Mouse trap today and saw your anchors we were able to top out although it was thin. Second to last pitch is mushy final pitch is good to go. Overall the climb is wet with some holes

 

Valley ice in general is very white and care is needed

Posted

Jmace....our high point was the slung horn. The short step above that had a huge hole in it and wasn't safe at all to try. Although another day or two it'd probably be passable. Glad you guys made it all the way!

Posted

Myself and two others climbed at the "mousetrap" as well on friday..Good goin! We also had GREAT results on the sailor bar north waterfall(not sure of guide book name) 3 pitchs of near perfect conditions. Current forecast for this area are to get warm by tuesday. day time highs of 3 in agassiz FYI. enjoy the great conditions! i sure did!

 

Chris Link.

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