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Blake

Red CAG Additions and Errors Database

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Here are a list of routes not included in the Red CAG and errors in the book. This is not meant in any way to be a criticism of the guide or author, I think the CAGs are amazing books. Most routes were done after the publication deadline, which was early last summer. Others were not included for various reasons. Definitely add to the list here, and add them to your new red CAG!

 

 

Peak - Page - Route - Etc

 

Shuksan - Pg 67 - NW Arayete - Darin Berdinka and Matt Alford III 5.8 - route goes through the "S" in the word "slide" Pg 68 Route begins directly above (not left of) the "1" in 1939.

 

E. McMillan Spire - Page 100 - Northeast Buttress - Alan Kearney and Erik Johnson -IV 5.10a

 

SE Mox - Lemolo Peak - Pg 134 - NE Buttress- Eric Wehrly and Rolf Larsen - Grade V and 5.10- FA of the peak

 

Castle Peak - Page 213 - Hirst/Herrington 'Fight or Flight' - - Peter Hirst and Blake Herrington - Grade IV 5.10+ , left margin of "North Buttress East- 1993)

 

Les Cornes - Page 260 - Anderson River area of SW B.C. Voodoo Child, Sprung Cock Erect, and The Gatekeeper (5.11 and 5.12a) -Craig Mcgee and Others- 2006

 

Star Peak - Page 285 - Northwest Ridge (From Fish Creek Pass) climbed by Rolf Larsen and John Mailhiot 9/7/97 III 5.7

 

Courtney Peak - Page 287 - North Face - III 5.10 -Forest McBrian and Tasha Mcilveen

 

Silver Horn -Page 303 - Playin Not Sprayin - III 5.10 - Blake Herrington and David Trippett 2008

 

Pernod Spire - Page 304 - Indirect West Face - III 5.10 - Peter Hirst/Dan Cappellini/Rolf Larsen

 

Pernod Spire - Page 304 - Direct West Face - III+ 5.10+ Ross Peritore and Tony Bentley

 

Big Kangaroo - Page 317 - Kearney/Thomas (South Face-Right) - FFA Ross Peritore and Eric Wehrly - 5.11a Big gear

 

 

 

Pica/Poster Peak/Pk 7565 - Page 328 - Blue Buttress Scott Johnston 2003

 

Tower Mountain - Page 383 - SE Ridge (Left skyline) - Grade III 5.10 - Blake Herrington/Rad Roberts 2008 - may have been done earlier.

 

Varden Creek Spire - Pg 305ish - North Arete Scott Johnston and Larry Goldie III 5.9 -2007

 

Molar Tooth - http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=727610 West Face - II 5.8

 

Triumph - SW Rib III 5.8 - Mike Layton and Wayne Wallace

 

ERRORS

 

Error - Page 214 - "1979" arrow on Castle Peak should be directed one buttress to the right (angling feature)

 

Error - Page 233 - Topo for Left-Side route on MF Buttress is wrong, should be drawn to match written description on page 233

 

Error - Page 285 - FWA of Oval Peak was not made by Blake Herrington/Chris Simmons

 

Error - SEWS - Page 340 - The Passenger - Consensus grade IV 5.11c

 

Error - Page 332 - White-Yellow Headwall Crack on South Early Winter Spire should be 5.10-, not 5.10+ & Direct start from below to "Two dead snags" is 5.10c - Paul Butler and Larry Goldie

 

Mojo Rising on SEWS, featuring a rappel-bolted P1 was included in the book, despite earlier statements from Fred about excluding such routes in Alpine areas. Anyhow, my secondhand beta on the route from some locals is that is was a lot of fun!

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Blake - look closer. You will see that in fact, two of the three McGee routes on Les Cornes are listed. The only one that is not is Gatekeeper. Also Fred is using the old directions from Craig so he makes it sound like SCE is right of Lumberjacks when in fact it is left.

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Blake - look closer. You will see that in fact, two of the three McGee routes on Les Cornes are listed. The only one that is not is Gatekeeper. Also Fred is using the old directions from Craig so he makes it sound like SCE is right of Lumberjacks when in fact it is left.

 

Hi Drew,

 

The CAG briefly mentions Spring Cocks Erect as being to the right of Springbock arete, then again makes reference to a "direct start" to springbok arete. For the purpose of clarity: Spring Cocks begins to the left of Springbok, joins it after 3 pitches, then soon leaves it and finishes up to the right. This is the direct start suggested by Craig here on cc.com and on Alpinist.

 

Voodoo Child can also be used as a direct start (avoids even more of Springbok), but isn't mentioned at all by name in the new CAG (it begins and ends left of Springbok but is 6 pitches, so its probably the variation in question). The GateKeeper is not mentioned either, its quite a bit further left, up the slope.

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The info presented in the CAG for these routes is exactly what Fred got from Craig - I know cause Craig emailed it to me and I forwarded it to Fred. The Voodoo Child name was not used at that time.

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Orthodox Mtn - p. 240 - two multipitch 5.6 routes (both II 5.6) done by kris Wild and partners are not included

 

Macabre Tower (p. 246) - SE Pillar (III 5.11) done by Tyler Linn and partners in summer 2007 is not included.

 

Matriarch Mountain - p. 246-247 - SW Face Direct (II 5.8+) by Brayshaw & Fahlman 04 is not listed.

 

Cheam Peak (p. 148-150). West Face Kay-Zozikyan (p. 148) and NW Face Kay-Zozikyan (p. 150) are same route.

 

Slesse Mountain - p. 177 - Northeast Buttress is 3,000 feet high, not 3,000 meters as stated in text :lmao:

 

p. 184 - Mount "Parke" is actually Mount Parkes, named after Fred Parkes (member of Slesse FA team). Mountain is not "an intermediate summit just north of Crossover" but rather the main summit between Slesse and Crossover (mislabelled 'Stumpy Hill' in Alpine Select). Bamboozled Buttress (p.185) should be listed as a route on Parkes rather than on Crossover.

 

Crossover Peak (p. 184-185) - SE Buttress of E peak (II low-5th) not listed.

 

Mt Hatfield (p. 250) - North ridge route not listed (III low 5th class)

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Crossover Peak (p. 184-185) - SE Buttress of E peak (II low-5th) not listed.

 

Its II 4th class BTW.... only 5th class it you take contrived routes through all the steep steps

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I was disappointed to see a huge downgrade with Mongo. It seems it is now grade 5- 5.9. The tower grades are now irresponsibly soft-graded as well. Where the elevation was exaggerated! No mention of the N. Pickets Traverse either and Mike and Erics Blob effort was reduced to a footnote. Oh well

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Fred's just keeping it old school, Wayne. At least anything harder than 5.9 isn't called 5.8 A2.

 

The North Face of the East Mac Route that Rolf and I did could be in there too.

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