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[TR] Stein's Pillar - NE 12/6/2008


geoff

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Trip: Stein's Pillar - NE

 

Date: 12/6/2008

 

Trip Report:

Ben, Larry and I climbed the pillar on sat. We left PDX fri. evening and arrived in Prineville a few hours later where we stopped to ask for directions. No one had ever even heard of Stein's Pillar and the lady at the gas stop kept trying to get us to drive further east up into the Ochoco Mountains. But with a call to the childless Kyle we were able to get directions and head up into the woods where we slept at the trailhead.

 

By dawn's first crack we were off. A fairly mellow hike led to the NE face and the first of many cool ledges. P1 was Larry's and he stylied it. We aided off the pipe sticking out of the wall for the first move and then protected the next with a #5. This led to the second cool ledge. Then, Ben was off. He led, I cleaned and Larry jugged straight up. Cool ledges the whole way except for the last belay. As advertised some of the gear was very old and very interesting. Ben brought some iron and a hammer but never used it although he did stick clip past the manky bolt to start P3 (I think).

 

Made it to the top just before sunset. The first rap is a free rap so make sure you don't have your pack on like I did or it won't be that fun. Two ropes make it down to top of P3 and then one more double rap puts you on the ground. Hiked out in the dark.

 

 

 

Gear Notes:

Stick clip.

 

Approach Notes:

Hiking trail.

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That would be Add-a-Bolt Ben, formerly Beacon Ben, and Ol' Dirty Larry.

 

I could be down for another trip but the weather was great. It may not be reasonable to plan on all the stars aligning again before spring.

 

Mt. Hood on the other hand....

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