New to Forum, need boot advice

[syackman]

I am going to be moving out to WA in the spring and would like to climb Rainier while I live there. I need advice on boots for the mountain. I would like these boots to also be able to pull double duty for winter climbing in CO where I am from since I won't live in WA forever. Does anyone have advice on boots, either plastics or leathers, that are not too expensive and will serve my purpose? I appreciate the advice and help. I am already thinking that I will get BD Contact Strap crampons for use with these boots since I can also use them for early summer climbs in CO when the peaks are still snow capped with my regular leather boots. Due to this please suggest boots that can utilize these or this style of crampons. Thanks again.

[DPS]

I find insulated leather/synthetic leather style boots to work well for Rainier and winter climbing on lower peaks. Many manufacturers make good ones, the trick is to find the pair that fits best. Some good manufactures include La Sportiva, Scarpa, Boreal, and Kayland. Any climbing boot will accept BD Contact Strap (or similar) crampons.

[Bug]

I have a pair of Scarpa Frenies, size 11, still in good shape I would make you a good deal on. These are the favorite leather mountaineering boot for many who have narrow feet. I do not.

 

I also have a pair of Dynafit MLKs same size and also too narrow for me. They are a great plastic mountaineering boot with the Dynafit binding mounts. Put a pair of Intuition Liners in them and you would be golden well into sub-zero temps.

 

Even if you are not interested in MY boots, these are what I chose after decades of climbing and gear wars. Just my 2 cents.

 

I have used fairly light boots on Rainier and got slightly cold feet. A lot of the cold comes up through the sole so find a good insole regardless of what you buy.

 

I find that lighter boots are great for WA cascade climbing and Montana climbing (down to 20F or so). If you are climbing really cold in CO, you may want more than one boot. Other than Rainier in a storm it just does not get that cold here for the most part.

And I assume you would be doing other climbs in WA?

[josephfazioli]

I wear Lasportiva trango extreme evo lights, http://sportiva.com/products/prod/336.

 

They are absurdly light and quite warm- I've worn them up Mt Whitney in march, Mt Washington (NH) in February, and dozens of long days in the Adirondacks.

 

They provide enough support and rigidity for technical mixed climbing but remain light and comfortable enough to hike in without crampons.

 

I've worn all-leather boots (Lasportiva Makalus and Lasportiva lhotse) and plastic double boots- (Koflach Degre) but these are by far the best boot i've worn for 99% of conditions.

 

The only thing is that you will want to replace the insole that comes with them. It doesn't provide much comfort, support, or insulation. I put Superfeet in them and it made a huge difference. Make sure you bring the insoles you will have in them when you go to the store. I also found that the sizing for lasportiva is anything but uniform. I'm in a 42 approach, 43 mountain running, and a 42.5 mountaineering boot. Try them on.

[Chad_A]

Ditto to just about whatever everyone else said, and I'll add this- if you're looking for a boot that will do a little bit of everything, and that will last for a while, I'd suggest something with true leather to it. It will last longer than the synthetic lightweight boots out there. As Dan said, La Sportiva, Boreal, etc, all put out a boot that's true leather, burly, insulated and warm. The Nepal Evo and the Boreal Pamir are great boots to look at.

 

And I'll also say this: I don't know if you're into ice, but you're in a great area to try some. The weight and price will be somewhat negligible to upgrade a step to a set of crampons such as the G12 or the BD Sabretooth; you might find that you'll be perfectly happy to climb Rainier with them and hit the Ouray Ice Park when you're back in CO. Good luck and have fun.

 

 

[mike1]

I highly recommend the Nepal Evo GTX for most Winter mountaineering. But if you are thinking about Rainier in the Winter, then you may want something warmer like a plastic.