Crampons for ice and mixed

[alps]

I'd like to replace my Grivel Rambo II crampons (the old, straight version with a rigid frame). A model that offers both the monopoint and the dual-point option would be nice, and it should be suited to waterfall ice climbing as well as steep, technical alpine ice and mixed routes. Right now, I'm considering the Petzl M10 (a friend of mine has it and likes it). But maybe the BD Cyborg would be an option, too? I haven't heard much about those yet, but it looks like they are a bit cheaper, come with anti-balling plates (though they are pretty stiff - do they work well?), and they have a lower frame in the front (which looks like it could be nice).

 

Any recommendations/opinion? Maybe some other ideas?

[John Frieh]

Both great pons. I believe BD model is a little lighter than the M10. Whatever you get make sure you pick up an extra pair of replacement front points.

 

If having the mono option isnt a requirement for you the dartwin is a very light dual vertical front point option.

[cbcbd]

I have the G14s and M10s. I prefer the M10s - for one, I think the secondary points stick out further than on the G14s. Another - you can configure the front points on the M10s in more different positions than on the G14s.

Also, I do recall getting anti-balling plates with my M10s - I got them as the recall replacement for my Sarkens, so I'm not sure if that had anything to do with it.

 

If you don't mind not having the mono point option I'd consider the Petzl Dartwins or Sarkens - I really dug the Sarkens for most everything and will be getting a set of the new ones this year.

[genepires]

I loved the sarkens for alpine snow and ice and mixed ground, but I felt that the front points were too long for winter ice climbing. Was harder to get the secondary points to set in. I used the dartwin (replacement for sarken recall) this last winter and in alaska this spring and I felt it did well for both seasons.

 

It would be nice to have a "one crampon for all seasons" but they don't really exist. The closest I have found is the dratwin. You might be happier if you had two pairs of poons, one for steep waterice ice and one for alpine terrain.

 

When you mentioned mixed routes, do you mean mixed routes like vertical rock (vertical mono point)or mixed like in snow and low angle rock in alpine (dual horizontal point)? Very different crampons for each.

Edited October 23, 2008 by genepires

[alps]

You might be happier if you had two pairs of poons, one for steep waterice ice and one for alpine terrain.

 

Sure, you're right. That's why I do have more than one pair already

 

So, what I meant is replacing the ones for waterfall ice and steep mixed. When I say "technical alpine ice/mixed" think something like more difficult couloirs in Chamonix, for example. So, that is more akin to waterfall climbing than to lower angle alpine terrain.

 

Thanks for the replies! I think I have settled on the M10 now.

[Dane]

Just curious as to why you didn't consider the newest Rambo?