Pencil_Pusher Posted July 19, 2001 Posted July 19, 2001 Probably got the spelling wrong, but wondering if others have climbed this, how long it took and what gear you used/needed? Also if there's other climbs within that 5.7 and under rating around the area that are good climbing? Wired Knut- Keep it up and we'll go for Lost Arrow Spire , nimwit. Quote
mattp Posted July 19, 2001 Posted July 19, 2001 The Petzolt Ridge is a wonderful climb on great rock in an exciting setting. It is long, however, with six or eight rock climbing pitches followed by what must be a thousand feet on the upper Exum Ridge, and it is pretty serious climbing if you are only a 5.7 or 5.8 leader. I climbed it with a girlfriend about ten years ago and we started from the lower saddle at about 6:00 am and returned at about 7:00 pm. For a rack, we took a standard selection of maybe six smallish wires and eight camming devices up to 3", and I don't remember thinking it was inadequate. We took only one rope, and I ended up downclimbing part of the rappel on the Owen Spaulding route. Notwithstanding my complaints in the "rangers lie" thread, we received accurate and helpful advice from the climbing ranger at Jenny Lake. There are dozens of excellent Teton climbs that are rated under 5.7. The Upper Exum is good, as is the Coven Route on Mt. Owen. I believe Baxter's Pinnacle can be climbed at 5.6; there is an excellent long moderate route on "Cemetery" (Symmetry) Spire, the CMC Route on Mt. Moran is tons of fun ... Quote
Lambone Posted July 19, 2001 Posted July 19, 2001 I did the Irene's Arete once. It was awsome, but I think it has a pitch or two of 5.9. I remember leading one scary section that was a bit run out above these huge blocky spike things. Otherwise the rock quality and protection is good. The last pitch finishes on a wonderfull knifeblade ridge. Quote
specialed Posted July 19, 2001 Posted July 19, 2001 Has anyone done the Snaz? Isn't there a devious runot OW section involved? Quote
AlpineK Posted July 20, 2001 Posted July 20, 2001 Ed, With the right gear you should be able to protect the OW sections. Nothing bigger than a #4 camalot though. Great climb!! Quote
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